Lauren de France

“With a powerful name like Resene Rulebreaker, an abundance of ideas started circulating my mind birthing creative and unlimited ideas. This colour has the potential to make and influential statement. Much like its name, it’s neither a traditional form of blue nor far from it, not quite green, not quite violet, severing the thoughts when one thinks of a ‘true blue’. A real rulebreaker.

I was led in the direction of those who stood outside the box, who cracked the social norms of their time, who challenged authority, who guided, impacted, motivated and even laid foundations for other generations to come. I was taken back to the revolutionary era of the 60x and 70s where the symbol of feminism was prominent and women’s fashion trends were taking shape from constructed expressions to independent freedom.

Starting in the 60s with the Mirabal sisters, also known as Las Mariposes, translated to The Butterflies in English, who formed an opposition movement against the Dominican Republic. On the day of their untimely deaths it has been marked as a day to raise awareness on the ending of violence against women. For my first nature aspect I took note of the butterfly theme, using the bow as a symbolism of the wings and paying in mind of the blue tone in Resene Rulebreaker, there were similarities to the blue colour of our own butterfly called Common Blue, also known as Pepe Ao Uri. The bow, usually placed at the front collar was also a popular trend in the 60s. Between the 60s and 70s, fashion designers and icons like Mary Quant and Andre Courreges changed the course of fashion for women by introducing futuristic elements and daring hem lines. It was a far cry from the more modest and conservative style in women’s clothing and broke the bounds on what women were expected to wear. This is seen in the slits in my garment, plunging neckline and the soft sleeves which billow with movement and an added modern hem, it represents the fashion movement itself while keeping the essence of the era intact.

During the massive cultural changes in the post-World War II generation, more women joined the workforce which led to disappointment in the unfair and great differences regarding pay between genders, and grievances being subject to sexual harassment and domestic violence. On June 30, 1966, inspired by the Civil Rights movement, the National Organisation for Women was founded. As years progressed these activists pushed for social change, protested and focused on stopping violence, equal pay for all genders and fought for women’s reproductive healthcare options among other things. They stood outside the rules and challenged them. In the 70s women’s rights gained even more exposure, it becomes the first International Women’s Year and the Women’s Bill of Rights (CEDAW) is formed.

My design showcases the constraints women faced and still do till this day. To add a modern twist and edginess I’ve lengthened the dress below the knee, giving it a classic hem and classy silhouette to balance out the exposed slits. The slit from the waist to the hem is a visual representation of this – the rawness you see, her skin, her curves, her body, being able to see her flesh through the horizontal seams on the garments breaks the rules.”

Resene Whitecliffe Colour of Fashion clothing - 2022

Photography by Jonathan Kraettli

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