How to paint windows / joinery

Q. Can I paint over newly powder coated exterior window frames? If so what are the best Resene products to use?

A. Wash down thoroughly using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash (be sure to clean off windows immediately).

Apply one coat of Resene Armourcote 221 followed by two coats of Resene Uracryl 402 (semi-gloss) or 403 (gloss).

You can use a single pot paint system – it is not as durable however. For a single pack system, it is the same preparation followed by one coat of Resene Vinyl Etch and two coats of either Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss, Resene Enamacryl gloss or Resene Super Gloss.

November 2023

Q. My bathroom window in the past was marine polyurethane. I used this for durability. What is your recommendation to refresh?

A. You can use Altex Timbercote marine varnish again if you like the finish. It is best practise to stick with like for like. Alternatively, if you are prepping by doing a good sand you could use Resene Qristal Clear instead. In some spaces, varnished timber will need regular maintenance due to moisture.

November 2023

Q. I want to use Resene Lustacryl in Resene Half Stack on my exterior wood windows. Is this suitable?

A. Yes, Resene Lustacryl is ideal for exterior timber windows. As long as the current condition is sound you may be able to paint over the top. If unsure but the paint is not flaking, use Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat first.

If the timber windows are old and the existing coating has been removed, apply one coat of Resene TimberLock followed by one coat of Resene Wood Primer prior to the Resene Lustacryl.

November 2023

Q. I want to paint my indoor windows with Resene enamel paint as I find it easier to use. The windows are currently painted in waterborne enamel and were done about 15 years ago.

Can I give them a light sand and put the Resene Lusta-Glo enamel straight over the top?

A. As long as the existing coat is sound, give the area a light sand and a wash down to ensure so dust, dirt or debris is removed. Apply one full coat of Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat followed by two full coats of Resene Lusta-Glo semi-gloss.

September 2023

Q. For windows with existing paint on them, we understand we should use Resene Quick Dry primer. But for soffits/weatherboards with existing paint coating (that will be sanded lightly), what is the appropriate primer please?

And I’m sure in reality there will be areas where we need to sand little patches right back to timber, so for areas where there is a mix of existing paint, and bare timber, can we spot prime with the Resene Wood Primer then go over the top with the main primer?

I will be using Resene Sonyx 101 CoolColour as the topcoat.

A. Resene Sonyx 101 can be applied directly over the light sanded paint coating without a need for primer in-between. Any areas that are very thin or back to bare timber can be spot primed with Resene Wood Primer (timber soffits/weatherboards). It's fine if you get this on the existing coating in the process. You can apply a coat of Resene Wood Primer over the entire surface if spot priming is not practical.

For the windows, spot prime any bare timber with Resene Wood Primer and then apply one full coat over the entire area (over the Resene Wood Primer and existing paint) with Resene Quick Dry.

The Resene Quick Dry is only required to aid our CoolColour technology that requires a white base coat before your dark colour is applied. You could use a full coat of Resene Wood Primer instead of the Resene Quick Dry, if you are happy to stick with oil based for this area.

September 2023

Q. I want to paint brown aluminium window frames in Resene Half Spanish White.

A. The surface will typically be dulled with some corrosion present. The powder coated aluminium will be chalky. A thorough careful clean is required to remove chalked paint and contaminants. There is likely to be mould or moss growth on powder coated surfaces.

Step 1: Treat moss and mould with Resene Moss & Mould Killer; use as directed on the label. For heavy infestations, an additional application(s) may be needed.

Step 2: Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted to label/data sheet directions. Rinse clean with copious quantities of clean water to remove all oils, grease, dust and any other contaminants. Test the surface is degreased by wiping with clean cotton wool. Repeat process if necessary.

For window joinery, special care is needed to avoid coating any rubber seals/sealants with any paints specified in this section. If practical, remove the rubber seal (and possibly the window glass) and once painted, replace with new rubber seals.

Then apply a full coat of Resene Vinyl Etch and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

August 2023

Q. We painted our windows with Resene Lusta-Glo semi-gloss enamel and while painting ended up with about a 5cm strip of Resene Lusta-Glo on the wall around each window. Do we need to sand this off or what primer can we use, before applying Resene Zylone Sheen? (Acrylic on top of enamel?)

A. Sanding it off/deglossing the application of Resene Lusta-Glo is the best method. I refer to this as scuffing up the surface to make a little bit of texture. Then dust/clean and apply Resene Zylone Sheen.

If you can't sand, a coat of Resene Quick Dry water-based primer undercoat between the Resene Lusta-Glo and Resene Zylone Sheen will work.

August 2023

Q. I have been restoring windows in a 1930s house and I have an issue with the new paint cracking. I am taking the frames and sashes right back to timber, replacing the putty, priming and undercoating with Resene Quick Dry. Then topcoat in Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss CoolColour. I have filled the small cracks and imperfections in the timber with Contract Filler. This appears to be where the cracks in the new paint are appearing, and I suspect it’s not dealing with the expansion/contraction of the timber very well. Is this the likely cause? If so, what filler would you recommend for exterior timber windows? It is a bit frustrating as I will have to redo these areas, so I want to make sure I get it right before I continue.

The main frames are Rimu, and the sashes are cedar I think.

I have used the RepairCare on some big repairs, which is excellent by the way. This is a small surface filling which this isn't really suitable for.

A. Timber expands and contracts with moisture, and we have had significant water this winter. Existing hairline cracks will always continue to open up unless routered out and extensively repaired. RepairCare SF Superfine will be better than the Contract Filler, but will not entirely solve the problem.

It could be worth waiting for warmer months to undertake the recoating, so you have less timber shrinkage to contend with.

August 2023

Q. I want to paint exterior villa windows. They have been previously painted with a gloss waterborne enamel. Can Resene Lumbersider Low Shen be used on top of this or should I strip it back? Eventually the entire house will be painted with Resene Lumbersider Low Sheen.

A. Resene Lumbersider Low Sheen is not recommended for windows that open and close. It can be applied to the front face but not areas that move or touch itself.

We do recommend using a waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl gloss or Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss.

Priming the bare patches of exposed timber and any new putty that is put in around the glass will be necessary before application of the topcoat. The primer will depend on the type of timber and what window putty is used.

August 2023

Q. Can Resene X-200 paint be used on very old and cracked timber window frames?

A. Resene X-200 is not the best choice for repainting old, cracked timber window frames. Given the age, the paint may be lead based and we would recommend testing for this using a lead-based paint test.

I would endorse total removal of existing paint. If the timber is redwood/cedar the primer will be Resene Wood Primer. (The other timber primer is Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat; this primer is for all timbers but specifically for priming Totara and Matai. If applied to Redwood/Cedar there will be tannin bleed which will continue to come through a waterborne paint system). Repair cracked putties using RepairCare DrySeal in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions (available from Resene ColorShops). Once the appropriate primer is selected then the following paint system is recommended - undercoat with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then topcoat with Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss in your chosen colour, using the CoolColour option if available for your colour.

If X-200 were applied, you may see failings in the cracked areas rather soon as well as an unwanted texture. Resene X-200 is specifically designed for cementitious substrates.

July 2023

Q. We've been repainting wooden windows for the first time from new macrocarpa frame/sill with cedar sashes. The topcoat has small blisters in areas as in photo on the frame and sill. Why? And what should we do?

A. It is hard to tell the exact cause, but there has been a reaction of some sort happening here. Potentially has happened before due to the paint layer differences.

Lots of variables can cause this, contaminants, resin bleed, solvents from primer being trapped due to colder conditions, and incompatibility between the existing coating and the new topcoat where a spot prime wasn’t placed.

The best way forward is to completely sand back the coating back to bare timber in the affected area and feather the edges, thoroughly wash and remove sanding dust. Allow to dry. Then apply one coat of Resene Quick Dry followed by two topcoats of Resene Enamacryl.

July 2023

Q. I wish to repaint a small area of interior aluminium window joinery to match the wall. What would be the appropriate primer to use?

A. Ensure the area is clean. Apply a thin coat of Resene Vinyl Etch before topcoating with a waterborne enamel finish such as Resene Lustacryl. If the area of joinery is in a water catchment area, the paintwork will not last as long as the original as it is not designed for water ponding.

July 2023

Q. I want to know what products I need to paint my old exterior bronze aluminium window joinery. I assume I need a metal primer and metal paint, to be adhered with a brush?

A. We recommend the following - scrub down the powder coated joinery using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash following label directions. Then apply a thin coat of Resene Vinyl Etch followed by two topcoats of a Resene exterior waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl gloss or Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss in your desired colour. This system is easy to apply and easy to maintain over the years.

Note the painted surface will not have the same hardness and wear properties as the original powder coated joinery.

For a harder wearing finish prime the prepared joinery with Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 400 series. These are both solventborne two pack systems with hardeners with time and temperature limitations.

July 2023

Q. We want to paint powder coated aluminium joinery (internal surfaces only) to match as closely as possible new surrounding paintwork (which is in Resene SpaceCote Flat). What do you recommend?

A. For aluminium joinery we recommend one coat of Resene Vinyl Etch, followed by two topcoats of Resene SpaceCote Flat. The only point to note is that a flat finish is not as cleanable as a semi-gloss, which is the most popular option.

July 2023

Q. I painted new putty with Resene Enamel Undercoat, ensuring a small overlap onto the windows - six days ago. Some of the painted surface has cracks. The puttying was also six days old and appeared to have a skin. Should I just proceed to wipe down with turps and then paint with Resene Quick Dry or should I apply a second coat of Resene Enamel Undercoat.

If I push down hard with my finger into the putty/paintwork it leaves an impression.

A. Unfortunately, it sounds like the putty hasn't cured, which it turn is softening the undercoat and preventing it from curing. It's best to leave this another week to see if it can continue to cure under the enamel undercoat. There is a chance that it won't and the paint will need to be removed. If it's possible to give it a week to see how it does that is what I'd advise.

May 2023

Q. I have interior timber reveals and sills with aluminium windows and am struggling with the areas touching the windows. The old paint had flaked off to bare timber in some patches due to (presumably) moisture from condensation forming on the frames and spilling over to the reveals and sills. I thoroughly scrubbed the sills and threshold between aluminium and timber with mould killer and a toothbrush to remove small amounts of mould that had appeared and let them dry. Then I scraped all the flaking paint, sanded all the frames with 120 grit sandpaper, primed the areas with Resene Quick Dry, applied filler to the timber joints and threshold between the aluminium and timber, and topcoated it twice with Resene Lustacryl. However after a few weeks I'm getting paint flaking in the corner. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? This area does get condensation sweat on the frames but we wipe this gently in the mornings.

A. This is a common issue with windows, timber or aluminium.

From the sounds of it you are doing all of the right things.

The issue could be coming from underneath the aluminium. It likely could be building condensation under the aluminium causing moisture issues. It may not be entirely a ponding of condensation issue from the window and running down onto the paintwork.

It could be worth addressing with a window repairer or builder. From a paint point of view there is not much more you can do . When you decide to repaint, I recommend using Resene Wood Primer (oil based) as the primer as oil based products can penetrate slightly further and may grip on slightly longer. It may just give you longer between recoats. The system would be one coat of Resene Wood Primer, one coat of Resene Quick Dry and two coats of a waterborne enamel such as Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss.

May 2023

Q. I was hoping to get some advice about painting aluminium joinery. The previous owner of my house did a horrendous job of re-painting the aluminium joinery (inside and out). It is now peeling everywhere and needs to be re-done properly.

What is the best way to remove the 'new' paint, sand/prep the joinery without damaging it, and what type of paint/primer do I need to use to avoid having this happen again?

I will be repainting the window frames at the same time as those were also done poorly, so I’m not concerned about sanding back more than just the joinery.

A. The first method I will suggest is to grab a bottle of Resene Graffiti Cleaner. This comes in a handy spray bottle. Slowly rub the 'new paint' to remove it. This is less harmful and helps reduce the risk of scratching the powder coated surface. Please note, don't let this get on the glass surface and remove with a wet cloth if it does. It will also damage any painted surface you don't plan to sand back.

Once the paint is removed wash down with clean water twice and let dry.

The paint system we recommend is one coat of Resene Vinyl Etch (oil based) followed by one coat of Resene Quick Dry then two topcoats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel in your desired colour.

Please note if water/condensation is left to pond on the bottom ledge of the window frame the paint system will eventually lift and need maintenance.

May 2023

Q. How do I paint aluminium window frames?

A. We recommend cleaning the surface, with Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner. Once dry apply one coat of Resene Vinyl Etch, please leave for two days to start the initial cure. Then apply one coat of Resene Quick Dry followed by two topcoats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss, waterborne enamel in your desired colour.

May 2023

Q. I have taken the windows on my house back to wood before painting. I painted a few years ago with waterbased primer and waterborne enamel topcoats, which are now peeling and crazed. I was given advice to use a solventborne sealer, 1 coat of waterborne undercoat and two coats of waterborne enamel. What is the life expectancy of this?

A. Working on the assumption that the Resene Lustacryl is tinted to a light pale colour, the expected life span will be anywhere from 8 -12 years. This can depend on the movement of the house and windows, if the movement is strong enough to cause cracking, if these are repaired in a timely manner and if window putty and other areas are kept in good condition to prevent moisture from getting in.

Oil-based is an option for exterior windows, but only a high-sheen version like Resene Super Gloss, a lower sheen like Resene Lusta-Glo semi-gloss is not recommended as it will chalk in an exterior setting. Waterborne enamels such as Resene Lustacryl do not yellow with age as oil-based enamels do, they stay flexible and do not become brittle over a long period of time.

March 2023

Q. I have windows that have been exposed to the weather for some time. What steps and products do you recommend?

A. We recommend sanding off and feathering off the edges on any paint that is flaking or loose. Once this is complete kill any moss and mould that may be present. Apply one coat of Resene Wood Primer, followed by two coats of a waterborne enamel such as Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss.

At this time, it is best to look at the condition of the window putty and address refresh this if needed.

March 2023

Q. I am going to renew the paint on the interior of my window frames. I have two pots of Resene paint left from the previous painting, which was done by professionals. One is Resene Lustacryl, the other is Resene Lusta-Glo. Are these finishes the same? I will need to get more paint so want to make sure I get the right one. Also, will I need to undercoat first, or just sand? The frames are wooden.

I am only planning to paint the interior, as I did the outside a few years ago. I would prefer to use waterbased paint as the cleanup is easier. I have been told that I don’t need to use an undercoat, just to sand the sheen off to get a key. Is this correct? I’ve always used an undercoat in the past.

A. It’s best to determine that paint is currently on the window since it looks like there is a chance Resene Lusta-Glo was used.

First wipe the window down to clean, next on a clean cloth or rag add some methylated spirits and rub the existing coating, if colour transfers onto the rag from the paint and the paint is softened it will be water-based, if it doesn’t remove colour or soften the paint, it will be oil based.

If you have water based, I’d clean and do light sand (more of a scuff) and apply two topcoats of Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel.

If it is oil based, a thorough sand is required to ‘degloss’ the existing paint, no areas can be missed or the paint will peel. If you are confident in your sanding two topcoats of Resene Lustacryl can then be applied direct.

If you wish to safeguard, one coat of Resene Quick Dry can be applied before the application of Resene Lustacryl to aid in adhesion.

March 2023

Q. I was wondering which primer I need to use for repainting the timber window surrounds? I'm painting with two topcoats with Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen Kitchen & Bathroom which I have purchased, I just need a primer. The windows can get a bit damp over the winter time.

A. We would recommend Resene Quick Dry water-based primer undercoat.

March 2023

Q. What is the best way to paint 80s windowsills. I think they are cement. The house is exposed brick.

A. We recommend the following:

Treat any mould with Resene Moss & Mould Killer. Once dry, seal with one coat of Resene Sureseal (oil based), followed by two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss.

Please note, that due to the surrounding exposed brick, there is a chance that moisture can travel through the brick and into the side of the concrete tiles. This moisture can cause the paint on the sill to bubble or flake. This is something to be aware off when painting areas like this.

March 2023

Q. I have had new windows installed - what primer/undercoat should I use on the galvanised iron flashing?

A. For a new galvanised flashing we recommend a scrub down with Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and applied following the label directions. Rinse clean with water then prime with Resene Galvo-Prime.

March 2023

Q. After sanding Rimu windowsills to remove varnish, I have painted them with primer/sealer/ undercoat. There are yellow stains coming through the white paint. How can I remove this or stop it from happening?

A. It sounds like you used either Resene Quick Dry or our trade painter’s version. Unfortunately, a water-based primer/undercoat is not recommended, as the tannins in native timbers such as Rimu can penetrate waterborne paint.

We recommend Resene Wood Primer which is oil-based and will hold back the staining. Apply two coats followed by two topcoats of a waterborne enamel such as Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss. The waterborne topcoat can be applied directly over the oil-based primer once it’s dry.

February 2023

Q. We have some renovated timber windows that have new double glazing in them the seal between the timber beads is MS black sealant. I have tried water based primer sealer, then waterbased paint and it flakes off over a few months.

A. The last 6 months has been very unsettled weather and has caused issues with painting over sealants across the country.

With the weather settling into summer now, use Resene Enamel Undercoat over the sealant and try topcoating again. If the paint peels again there could be an underlying issue - potential movement, too much for paintwork to flex.

January 2023

Q. I have old exterior timber windows that appear to be repainted with a water based paint instead of enamel. Can I paint over this with Resene Lustacryl?

A. Yes, Resene Lustacryl can go straight over clean water-based paint.

December 2022

Q. Which type of Resene paint is best for the inside sides of wooden windows and windowsills?

A. Either Resene Lusta-Glo or Resene Lustacryl Kitchen & Bathroom can be used as the topcoats over a suitably primed and prepared substrate. Resene Lusta-Glo being a traditional solventborne alkyd paint will tend to yellow over time, the yellowing does not occur with Resene Lustacryl.

June 2022

Q. Is painting new window putty essential? Can it be left for a year so as to avoid high scaffolding costs??

A. Putty left untopcoated for that length of time may prove to be difficult to achieve paint adhesion.

June 2022

Q. I have glue join line swelling while the paint dries. I have a window reveal with a small strip glued on (to straighten the lower internal edge) using Selleys Liquid Nails Heavy Duty.

The original sill had been varnished and that was scraped off on the sides and lower reveal and sanded perfectly smooth on the upper reveal and then given two coats of Resene Smooth Surface Sealer.

The join is always initially VERY smooth and has remained so on the vertical sides and overhead, but the lower (horizontal) sill join line slowly swells up here and there while drying. Drying is aided with a heater run for about ten hours.

It does flatten out somewhat overnight as it slowly dries, but so far, I have always been left with visible traces 24 hours later.

I have then tried sanding it perfectly smooth again and spot repriming with Resene Smooth Surface Sealer and got the same result but a lot less severe.

On the third attempt, I then tried sanding it perfectly smooth and decided that the odd spot was not hard enough to feather properly so I gave it another half-day drying time with a heater. At that stage, the enamel was certainly hard enough to perfectly feather out.

I am using a gloss solventborne topcoat as these best resist the chatter of blinds from marking them.

What I think I am looking for is a water-based undercoat that will go on top of the existing solventborne gloss enamel and block the final topcoats of solventborne enamel from getting at the adhesive.

A. I agree, that the adhesive is probably reacting to the solvents in the paint.

Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer is designed as a thin coat adhesion primer only and should only be applied as a single coat. If you want to achieve a better barrier apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry over the Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer then topcoat with the enamel.

It should only require 1 coat of Resene Quick Dry, but you can apply two as a better barrier coat and allow the Resene Quick Dry to cure for at least 48 hours then lightly sand.

June 2022

Q. On our new build I plan to paint inside window frames and doors in FlaxPod in a colour to match the window frames. What paint should I use? I don’t want to see shiny patches on doors or finger marks ideally. Around the window frames needs to be easy to wipe to and the doors I guess.

A. The usual paint that we recommend for this application is a semi-gloss waterborne enamel. However, if you want to reduce visual finger marking etc, I suggest that you apply two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen then finish with a coat of Resene SpaceCote Clear.

April 2022

Q. I want to revarnish some rimu/cedar wooden window frames. They have been sanded back but have some uneven colouring from previous water leaks. These ones are in the bathroom, but we will be doing several other rooms as well. The surround of the frame has been done in a clear varnish. Should we use a clear varnish on the sanded wood – or a stain/varnish combo? Also is it better to use an oil base varnish or is a water based one ok?

A. You can reduce the visual impact of water staining by treating the stained area with a 10% solution of oxalic acid. The acid can be sourced from most hardware outlets, some may have it already made-up as a solution for removing water marking. The acid is poisonous, the same active ingredient as is present in rhubarb leaves, so make sure you wear gloves and face protection when mixing/using. Apply the solution and using a small nail brush rub into the stains, leave for 10 minutes then remove by multiple washing with a sponge and water. You may need to sand smooth again before reapplying the clear coats.

Unless you can identify and address the source of the water, water staining may well reappear.

April 2022

Q. How do I get paint to stick to the glass on exterior of windows sealing the putty so as to stop water seeping through and spoiling the cedar and rimu joinery on the inside?

A. I recommend you carefully apply a line of RepairCare DrySeal Glazing Compound and extend it above the glass putty line.

August 2021

Q. What’s the best lasting paint for exterior white windows and handrails etc?

A. A traditional solvent borne gloss enamel topcoat will be hardest wearing but will undergo surface chalking more readily. If you have a waterborne paint already, to change the existing topcoat to an enamel sand to profile then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Super Gloss enamel.

August 2021

Q. I have sanded back exterior timber windows to timber in some places. Can I use Resene Sureseal, then Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel?

A. If the timber is Matai or Totara then the primer for bare timber is Resene Quick Dry, for all other timbers use Resene Wood Primer. Resene Sureseal is not formulated to be an exterior wood primer. If the primer is Resene Wood Primer, then apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry before topcoating with Resene Lustacryl.

August 2021

Q. How do I paint existing bronze anodised aluminium window frames? I would like a finish as close as possible to new black anodised aluminium in colour and finish.

A. Step 1: Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash.

Step 2: Lightly abrade the surface using a very fine sandpaper e.g. 320 grit sandpaper or a red 3M poly pad. Care must be taken to minimise damage or scratching the surface as scratch marks may telegraph through the paint system.

Step 3: Apply a coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl in your topcoat colour.

August 2021

Q. We are currently stripping paint off our 1930s Rimu joinery so that we can hero the beautiful native timber in our home. These timber frames will be retrofit double glazed. Can you please share with me how to ‘care for’ the raw timber in between paint stripping, retrofit double glazing and then getting the sashes reinstalled?

A. If the bare Rimu is sanded to a smooth even finish, there should be no need to apply a coating to protect the timber from exposure to light. Avoid getting the timber wet. Rimu is not usually stained but is clear coated with a polyurethane, for windows I would suggest a Resene Qristal Clear solventborne finish.

August 2021

Q. I have a wooden windowsill in the shower (previously painted white with enamel/oil paint I think) which quickly becomes grey and stained with mould. What would be the best paint to apply?

A. Treat the sill with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label instructions. For heavy infestations more applications may be needed. Then sand to remove the existing paint back to bare timber, apply a seal coat of Resene Wood Primer followed by two coats of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lusta-Glo.

August 2021

Q. I overlap paint onto the glass by a couple of millimetres, both inside and outside. I use Resene Quick Dry inside and outside topped with Resene Lustacryl outside and Resene Enamacryl inside. The paint doesn't stay on the glass in or out.

A. The putty once skinned needs to be primed with Resene Enamel Undercoat and the undercoat extended onto the glass before topcoating. The adhesion of the waterborne enamel topcoat will not be good when applied directly to glass, even more so if oil from the putty is on the glass.

June 2021

Q. The joinery shop making my joinery says I must use a total oil based system on their preprimed joinery, including topcoats. What should I use?

A. There has been an ongoing issue with the paint system for linseed oil putties. For a full oil-based system we recommend Resene Enamel Undercoat as the putty primer and Resene Super Gloss enamel as the topcoat.

June 2021

Q. A glazier has just finished replacing a broken pane of glass. How long should I leave the putty before applying primer? What primer (and undercoat and topcoat) do you recommend I use?

A. If the glazier used a linseed oil-based putty, leave the putty to cure and develop a surface skin. Prime the skinned putty with Resene Enamel Undercoat ensuring paintwork is lapped onto the glass a minimum of 2-3mm to ensure a weather seal is achieved. Allow the Resene Enamel Undercoat to cure for at least 24 hours, then gently wipe along the primed glass line with a cloth wet with turps to remove any residual linseed oil contamination. Then overcoat the Resene Enamel Undercoat with a coat of Resene Quick Dry, note that Resene Quick Dry cannot be used to prime the skinned putty. Then apply two coats of topcoat paint using Resene Super Gloss or Resene Lustacryl ensuring the primed glass line is coated.

June 2021

Q. Our daughter is restoring a villa and is stripping all the windows – currently painted to their original timber. However, the previous owner has painted all the window so they no longer open. What topcoat do I use?

A. The previous paint used had no block resistance, block resistance is the ability of a paint finish not to fuse when two painted surfaces come into contact under pressure. To overcome this you can use conventional solventborne or waterborne enamel topcoat finishes. If you go the way of a solventborne enamel you can only use Resene Super Gloss for exterior and the same or Resene Lusta-Glo for interior topcoating. When using a waterborne enamel you can use Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl.

June 2021

Q. I’m painting old wooden windows. Can I impinge Resene Quick Dry on glass before the enamel finish or just the enamel. I have taken old paint off the glass back to the putty.

A. If you are using Resene Quick Dry to prime bare timber it is best to then apply a band of Resene Enamel Undercoat to overlap onto the glass.

May 2021

Q. We have an interior windowsill, north facing, on which the ancient varnish has broken down. Should I use a solventborne or waterborne clear finish? We will be using a stripper and a scraper to get back to bare timber. I think the timber is pine, probably installed in the 1970s.

A. Solventborne clears, such as the Resene Qristal Polyurethane range, are better for this application.

May 2021

Q. We wish to refurbish rimu window frames throughout our house. They have not been touched in 25 years. Some are water damaged in the corners but we have had double glazing fitted so that is no longer an issue and in some the grain is swollen and rough. We want to retain the rimu finish with the colour it has now.

A. You will need to treat areas of mould using Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label instructions. Then thoroughly sand to restore a smooth timber finish and colour. Then apply a coat of Resene TimberLock, wipe excess Resene TimberLock off at time of application and leave to cure for at least 48 hours before overcoating. This will give the timber an orange colour but this may not be an issue with timbers such as rimu. Then apply three coats of a Resene Qristal Polyurethane clear. The cedar coats can be applied without the application of Resene TimberLock if the Resene TimberLock colour is not acceptable.

May 2021

Q. Please recommend an oil-based primer and oil-based topcoat for a steel window frame restoration project. The steel sash (window frames) are from around 1960. They appear to have had a factory galvanising under several coats of paint which have accumulated over the years. The frames have about 50% coverage with rust. We have mechanically removed the loose and flaking rust (wire brushes on rotary equipment) and have treated all remaining solid rusted surfaces with a conversion coating to convert the iron oxide into ferric tannate and ferric phosphate. In some areas, the glass was removed (due to cracks) and in these areas, a cold galvanising was applied (rattle can galvanising). So the surface we wish to prime consists of converted rust, rattle can galvanising, old paint and original galvanised steel (from most to least).

A. We do not recommend using rust conversion treatments for this application. The spray can primers do not contain zinc metal but are based on an inhibitive zinc phosphate pigment, the primer does not behave as a zinc rich paint would.

Given what you have already done, our only recommendation would be to apply two coats Resene ArmourX GP Metal Primer over the primed areas and areas treated with the rust treatment before topcoating.

April 2021

Q. We have aluminium windows from the late 80s and would like to paint them. They are faded but in good condition. What is the current recommended paint system?

A. Step 1: Treat moss and mould with Resene Moss & Mould Killer; use as directed on the label.

Note I: For heavy infestations, an additional application(s) may be needed.

Step 2: Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted to label directions.

Rinse clean with copious quantities of clean water to remove all oils, grease, dust and any other contaminants. Test surface is degreased by wiping with clean cotton wool. Repeat process if necessary.

Step 3: Thoroughly wet sand to remove any areas of corrosion, and to remove aluminium oxide layer and provide a better key for adhesion. Any pitted areas should be wet sanded to a smooth profile. If possible, any sharp edges on the aluminium profile should be rounded off, to allow better coating film build.

Note II: For window joinery, special care is needed to avoid coating any rubber seals / sealants with any paints specified in this section. If practical, remove the rubber seal (and possibly the window glass) and once painted, replace with new rubber seals.

Note III: The mitre joint in aluminium windows will be more noticeable the lighter the colour selected.

Then apply a coat of Resene Galvo One and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

March 2021

Q. What is the best type of paint to use on windows (inside)?

A. For wooden windows use Resene Lustacryl or Resene Lustacryl Kitchen & Bathroom, applied over an appropriately prepared and primed substrate.

February 2021

Q. We have wooden casement windows on our 1940s bungalow. We have just stripped them back and are getting differing advice on whether we should use a waterborne or regular enamel to ensure they don’t stick. Can you assist?

A. You can use a solventborne (Resene Super Gloss) or a waterborne enamel such as Resene Lustacryl or Resene Enamacryl, but not a conventional waterborne paint.

February 2021

Q. I’m thinking of repainting my old 1970s aluminium windows is there a primer and topcoat in a low sheen finish that you could recommend?

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Do not allow the wash solution to dry out on the surface. Rinse clean or hose down with fresh water. Apply a full coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 404 colour. Ensure the rubber window seals are not painted.

February 2021

Q. How do you repaint brand new aluminium windows? I understand there will need to be a primer of some sort. What kind of paint do you use as the colour coat? The house is in Resene Half Tea and I want the joinery to match. It is powder coated – new - but just the wrong colour. I should not have followed the installer’s colour proposal which was contrary to my own instincts!

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions – do not allow the wash solution to dry out on any surface. Rinse clean or hose down with copious amounts of fresh water. Lightly wet sand with 400 wet and dry sand paper to profile taking care not to unduly scratch the surface, wipe clean and apply a full even coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Application of a Resene CoolColour will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool pigmentation and reduce heat related stress on the substrate; it will not make the painted surface cool to touch.

February 2021

Q. My galvanised roller shutter is showing a bit of ginger rust on the top. Can I paint over with the rust arrest anti-corrosive primer before finishing with the final steel paint?

A. Resene Rust-Arrest cannot be applied over a zinc coating (assume the substrate is galvanised or Zincalume), so assuming the gingering is not a solid area of red rust then no. What you are seeing is referred to as sheltered corrosion which occurs on areas that are not regularly rain washed to remove dirt and salt. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Rinse clean or hose down with fresh water ensuring all salts are also removed. Then using a 3M Rust and Paint Disc prepare the areas showing gingering, removing all areas of white corrosion material and as much red rust as is practicable and all paint to leave only soundly adhering corrosion products., Then prime the prepared area with Resene ArmourZinc 110, overcoat the Resene ArmourZinc 110 with a coat of Resene ArmourX GP Metal Primer then finish with two coats of Resene Summit Roof colour.

February 2021

Q. We have just had our window retro fit double glazed. We had aluminium joinery and I hear there is a product that I can apply to the exterior older aluminium joinery to bring up its shine. This is to make the older joinery look closer in colour to the new joinery with the double glazing. Apparently, it requires some elbow grease. What product do I require?

A. The only waterborne product we have is Resene Clearcoat UVS, the other product is Resene Uracryl 403 UVS Clear which is solventborne. The existing coloured aluminium will need to be clean and free from any surface chalking. The aim is to wet out the old colour and this will restore the original colour but only if the breakdown is chalking of the surface. If there is colour fade, then the original colour will not be restored.

This can be checked by wetting the old joinery with water, if the original colour returns on the wet area then the above systems will work. If the original colour does not return then the joinery finish colour has faded and you will need to apply a pigmented paint system to match the new joinery.

December 2020

Q. I am about to paint the high level of my house which requires scaffolding. I would like to know whether I should use acrylic or enamel base paint for the windows? Which gives the longest service? I want to put off rescaffolding as long as possible. The windows have previously been painted with enamel.

A. Waterborne enamels are more durable in exterior exposure than a traditional solventborne enamel if time to onset of surface chalking is the definition of durability.

November 2020

Q. The outside of my house is to be painted so I have booked a glazier to come and replace some window putty. He will be using XHP Wood Frame Glazing Compound (which dries in about 24 hours). After he has removed the old putty I will prime the frames before he puts in new putty. This compound specifically says not to use fast drying paints - which rules out Resene Quick Dry. The product data sheet says this - "Substrate Preparation - A traditional brush applied film of conventional long alkyd based undercoat" I live in Gisborne and it gets extremely hot here over the summer.

A. Resene Wood Primer meets the definition as the wood primer. We usually recommend Resene Enamel Undercoat for priming of the putty once it has skinned.

November 2020

Q. We seem to have cleaner left on the window – how do we fix?

A. The usual issue is we see occurs when the diluted cleaner is not well washed off gloss. If there is residual cleaner that dries on the glass there is a possibility that this may see may etching of the glass surface, which is seen as a whitish deposit.

First assumptions that the glass may be etched is still a possibility. Since there wouldn’t have been much heat involved that would create a good bond, it should be possible to remove by mild abrasive cleaner. Care must be exercised to avoid scratching the glass. Steel wool (wet and soapy) doesn’t scratch glass and is known to remove silicate deposits from metasilicate on glass. Some metal polishes can be used with appropriate care. The mildest abrasive will be a Jif abrasive cleaner where the abrasive particles are much softer than glass but this may be too mild – it really depends on how strongly adhered the residue is. Last resort is an acid-cleaner, acetic acid (vinegar is fine) is the safest to start with.

November 2020

Q. I have a new timber window going into a bathroom. The frame sides will be waterproofed and tiled, with a 5 degree slope on the interior sill. But what paint should I use on the sash and exterior of the frame/sill?

A. The sill needs to be envelope rimed with a coat of Resene Wood Primer followed by a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish the exposed area with two coats of Resene Enamacryl.

November 2020

Q. The joiner has applied three coats of Resene Woodsman Bushtrack wood oil stain to a plywood shutter and the colour is still clear, like a clear finish. We previously did a sample test with Woodsman Banjul and didn't have the same issue. Is there a reason why this is occurring?

A. Assuming the joiner did use the Resene stain the only possible explanation is that the stain was not stirred until uniform, or that the product had not been tinted.

September 2020

Q. I want to paint over our pre-existing aluminium joinery (windows). I was just wondering what paint I would use, what process this would be and if I would need to sand the original colour off even if there was no corrosion/damage/miscolour?

A. I assume we are dealing with exterior windows. Clean down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label instructions. Apply a coat of Resene Pre-coated Steel Primer and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

June 2020

Q. We have an external window ledge. This has been repaired some time ago with a new sheet of wood on top, glued and screwed. The paint is a dark grey which attracts heat. Because of the heat the gap between the old and new wood expands and contracts. This causes the paint to crack and look unsightly. Is there a painting solution for this wood which would support the contraction and expansion of the wood?

A. The only possible solution is to use a Resene CoolColour system, apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry then two coats of Resene Lustacryl tinted to the CoolColour version of the colour. Application of a Resene CoolColour will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool pigmentation and reduce heat related stress on the substrate; it will not make the painted surface cool to touch. We cannot guarantee that application of the CoolColour system will prevent future dimensional changes from occurring but apart from changing the topcoat to white there is no other paint option that will.

June 2020

Q. I would like to paint varnished window sills. What do I use?

A. If possible, sand first. Then apply one thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer (allow to dry for 48 hours to get best adhesion). Then apply one coat of Resene Quick Dry and two coats of Resene Enamacryl gloss waterborne enamel or Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

June 2020

Q. I am restoring some internal rim windowsills that have bad sun damage and fading in parts from heat and UV. I plan to use Resene TimberLock first on the damaged parts and then Resene Colorwood stain to fix the fading before applying clear varnish. Will Resene Colorwood work successfully on the parts with Resene TimberLock?

A. Resene Colorwood stain needs to be applied direct to the timber. Also, Resene TimberLock is an orange brown shade and will change the stain colour. It would be best to strip the existing varnish first rather than try spot repairs.

May 2020

Q. What is the best primer to use on putty on exterior wooden windows? Is water-based OK or not?

A. Resene Enamel Undercoat is the primer for new putties, allow the putty to develop a good skin before priming. This can be overcoated with solventborne or waterborne topcoats.

May 2020

Q. We are very soon retro-fitting double glazed windows to our home. The material used is cedar frames. The windows will be pre-primed/sealed prior to installation by the supplier. I will be painting the window frames inside and out after installation. What do you recommend the installer use to prime/seal the cedar woodwork prior to me painting?

A. The factory primer should be an oil based primer as waterborne primers show tannin bleed is applied to cedar. It is our experience that the factory primers may not be at the same level of quality as Resene primers, hence the recommendation to re prime. My recommendation is to lightly sand the factory primer and apply a full coat of Resene Wood Primer before topcoating. For the exterior apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry as the undercoat before topcoating.

May 2020

Q. I have some badly stained window sills varnished in 1985 when the flat was built. Is there some sort of paint or stain that can make it look like varnish and cover stains? I think they are too bad to sand right back.

A. A change to a solid paint finish is the only way to address the visual staining. Using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner ensure the surfaces to be painted are clean and free from grease, pay particular attention to hand contact areas.

Apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and allow to cure without water contact for at least 48 hours before over coating. The sealer is not designed to be applied as a thick wet film thickness or give opacity, the thinner the coat the better. Then apply two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen or Resene Lustacryl.

The new paint system will take five days to develop good initial adhesion and continue to cure for an additional three weeks until full cure occurs. In the early stages, the paint surface will not have good resistance to cleaners or abrasion, as these features develop as the film undergoes curing.

April 2020

Q. I need to paint some aluminium window frames. They are already painted and need redoing with the rest of the house (using Resene X-200). What type of paint do I use?

A. Wash down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl. This is given on the assumption that the existing paint is a waterborne paint.

April 2020

Q. What do I need to paint aluminium windows a different colour?

A. Wash down the aluminium joinery with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash following label instructions. Prime exterior aluminium joinery with Resene Vinyl Etch before topcoating with a waterborne enamel finish such as Resene Lustacryl.

April 2020

Q. What is the best treatment for rimu window frames? They are currently covered with polyurethane. This is old and needs redoing. The polyurethane also has not totally sealed off moisture, as tracks of black mould have crept in under. Should I use paint stripper and get back to the bare wood? What is the best paint stripper to use? It there a wood sealer that seals and protects the wood that is reasonably long lasting?

A. Yes, a total strip is required. It may be easier to use a heat gun and a tungsten blade scraper. Once stripped, treat the area with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label instructions, leave for 48 hours then wipe down well with water. Then thoroughly sand, dust off and apply a coat of Resene TimberLock, wipe excess off at time of application, and leave for 48 hours before applying polyurethane. The Resene TimberLock will change the timber colour as it has an orange colour but over Rimu the colour change should not be great.

April 2020

Q. Can Resene CoolColour black be used on exterior timber window frames (flat frames with no timber sill)? We really want dark frames outside and notice the LRV (light reflectance value) isn't too different among the other dark colours with CC. The timber is in very good condition/well prepped etc. I realise most people say dark cannot be used on timber but we use CoolColour black on all our exterior cedar with no issues. Will the window frames be any different?

A. As long as two painted surfaces do not touch, you can use a standard exterior CoolColour waterborne paint. To achieve the maximum heat reflection apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry before topcoating (spot prime bare cedar with Resene Wood Primer not Resene Quick Dry). There is no difference in the LRV of the cool and non-cool versions of a given colour as LRV is for the visible colour.

April 2020

Q. I have old timber windows and doors that are cedar with clear finish varnish on the inside. Over time, especially on transoms the varnish has gone and the timber is stained where condensation has sat and the timber is either a dark colour from mildew or bleached in colour. What can I do to treat any mildew and restore the timber to its natural finish/colour before re-varnishing? Also, the putty has perished, do I simply replace with wood putty or a timber coloured sealant?

A. The staining probably results from water ingress under the varnish film. This is commonly seen with older native timber windows that have been clear coated.

The clear will need to be stripped to expose the bare timber, treat first with Resene Moss & Mould Killer to label instructions and then with a 5% solution of oxalic acid. Oxalic acid is available from most hardware store chains. While it is an acid it is not that corrosive but the active is the same as in rhubarb leaves so ensure you wear gloves, eye and clothing to protect exposed skin. Apply the oxalic solution into the stains and leave and then remove by repeated wiping with a damp cloth changing the water on a regular basis. Then allow to dry out.

Cannot guarantee that this will remove all of the water staining. If the water ingress can’t be addressed reapplication of a clear coat will see the situation being repeated.

April 2020

Q. I have stripped timber window surrounds for repainting after 30 years of exposure to intense sunlight from the north and west sunlight.

I would like to know what treatments will be suitable for repainting that will resist the intense sunlight and heat for the future.

I would like to follow the existing colour which is a chocolate brown which is compatible with the aluminium window joinery. I mention this detail because I cannot use the lesser colours to attenuate the sunlight and heat.

The timber is interior window surround in softwood pine finger jointed. So, the heat in the direct sun is quite intense.

A. After sanding back, you can apply two coats of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl topcoat.

The lighter the topcoat colour the more heat that will be reflected from the painted surface.

April 2020

Q. I'm in the process of painting the outside of my timber windows. I tried to sand it down but it ends up that the layer gets tacky and blocks the sanding paper. With the heat gun it's almost impossible to remove the paint. How can I prepare the surface for a new coat?

A. Are you saying that when you sand the paint is goes soft and forms small balls of paint rather than dusting off? If so then the existing paint is probably as conventional waterborne coating. Heat is created due to friction when the paint is sanded and this can soften certain paint types. A heat gun and a tungsten scraper may be a better option than sanding to remove that existing paint.

April 2020

Q. Can I paint over waterbased paint on window ledges with oil base paint?

A. I would not recommend applying a solventborne enamel over a waterborne paint. The waterborne paint is softer than the enamel and may wrinkle after a time.

April 2020

Q. What is the process for painting over putty around a window? My paint does not last very long and flakes off. The putty is not new. I have applied a waterbased wood primer.

A. Once the putty has developed a skin apply Resene Enamel Undercoat extending the undercoat in a line above the putty onto the glass. A waterborne primer cannot be used for priming new putty.

April 2020

Q. Do you need an oil based primer for window putty?

A. Our recommendation is to use Resene Enamel Undercoat as the primer for linseed oil putty that has been allowed to develop a skin.

February 2020

Q. I am looking for a low VOC paint to touch up our windowsills in our children’s room.

A. We recommend Resene Lustacryl. Clean down to remove grease/oil then sand to profile for recoating. For the best topcoat adhesion apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry to the prepared existing paint surface.

February 2020

Q. I am just about ready to paint the wooden windows in our 1960s house. I have cleaned everything up but what size brush do I need please?

A. I always select the brush size to get as close to the width of the timber to be painted.

February 2020

Q. I am about to start re-varnishing window frames, skirting etc. I have an issue with water stain/blonding. I had thought of painting the sills and staining the remainder.

A. Water staining like this is usually under the clear film, so complete removal of the clear layers is required to access the source of the staining.

Removal of the stains to achieve the original timber appearance for revarnishing is also a challenge so my recommendation is to consider the application of a solid paint system to these areas.

For these areas sand to profile the existing clear coat and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

January 2020

Q. I have a house with dated and faded peach powdercoated aluminium window frames. Do you have a suitable paint system for me to repaint them Arctic White - to match some other new doors and windows we are installing?

A. Clean down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label. Apply a coat of Resene Vinyl Etch white and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

December 2019

Q. We want to know what type of paint we would be able to use in order to repaint over our existing aluminium window frames?

A. The surface will typically be dulled with some corrosion present (aluminium oxide AlO2). Anodised and powder coated aluminium will be chalky. A thorough careful clean is required to remove chalked paint and contaminants. There is likely to be mould or moss growth on powder coated surfaces.

Step 1: Treat moss and mould with Resene Moss & Mould Killer; use as directed on the label. For heavy infestations, an additional application(s) may be needed.

Step 2: Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted to label/data sheet directions. Rinse clean with copious quantities of clean water to remove all oils, grease, dust and any other contaminants. Test surface is degreased by wiping with clean cotton wool. Repeat process if necessary.

Step 3: Thoroughly wet sand to remove any areas of corrosion, and to remove aluminium oxide layer and provide a better key for adhesion. Any pitted areas should be wet sanded to a smooth profile. If possible, any sharp edges on the aluminium profile should be rounded off, to allow better coating film build.

For window joinery, special care is needed to avoid coating any rubber seals/sealants with any paints specified in this section. If practical, remove the rubber seal (and possibly the window glass) and once painted, replace with new rubber seals.

The mitre joint in aluminium windows will be more noticeable the lighter the colour selected. Then apply a full coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

December 2019

Q. We have used Resene TimberLock on hardwood as there is ongoing deterioration of the waterbased paint on pine framing on our windows. Are we able to use an oil based enamel as the next coat and further coats of oil based enamel?

A. Resene TimberLock is not an alternative to a dedicated wood primer. You will need to leave the Resene TimberLock to dry for at least 48 hours then apply a coat of Resene Wood Primer before topcoating.

December 2019

Q. I would like to paint over varnished Rimu window sills and architraving. The varnish may be 20 years old or more. What is the best way to do this?

A. Using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner ensure the surfaces to be painted are clean and free from grease, paying particular attention to hand contact areas. Give the existing clear a sand to profile using 220 grit sandpaper (you do not need to sand to completely remove).

Apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and allow to cure without water contact for at least 48 hours before overcoating. The sealer is not designed to be applied as a thick wet film thickness or give opacity, the thinner the coat the better. Then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

The new paint system will take five days to develop good initial adhesion and continue to cure for an additional three weeks until full cure occurs. In the early stages the paint surface will not have good resistance to cleaners or abrasion as these features develop as the film undergoes curing.

December 2019

Q. I am preparing some wooden window frames that I painted with Resene water based paint some 12 years ago. I am sanding the old paint back, with an orbital sander instead of feathering back, the old topcoat seems to rise up leaving a ragged edge where i am trying to feather back. How can i prevent this?

A. Conventional waterborne paints soften when sanded due to the heat created by the sanding process, the paints do not dust up when sanded but the softened paint can roll up in to balls. Orbital sanders do have the potential to create more heating.

The only way around this is to wet sand using wet and dry sandpaper.

December 2019

Q. I have a 1980s house and the windows are aluminium powdercoated brown, do you know what the colour brown they used as standard for the windows?

A. Windows in Bronze or Lignite were the most popular.

Q. I have a few little runs where I applied a bit too much Resene Lustacryl on my window frames. How soon can I sand these off and touch up?

A. Wet sand with 220 wet and dry sandpaper, it is difficult to sand fresh waterborne paint. Then spot prime with Resene Quick Dry and re apply the Resene Lustacryl topcoats.

Q. I am using waterbased undercoats and Resene Enamacryl on our outside wooden windows. My problem is that the paint is lifting off the glazing putty starting from the glass junction with the putty.

A. Unfortunately the adhesion of waterborne paints to glass is not as good as a solventborne system. Water collects at the gloss/putty interface and if this is like total immersion of the waterborne system and this causes the paint in contact with the gloss to lift. Once this occurs the process will continue.

The only way to overcome this is to ensure that a solventborne undercoat is used to paint over the putty/glass interface and then only topcoat the enamel undercoat with the waterborne paint, suggest a change to Resene Lustacryl for the topcoat may also be beneficial.

Q. After two coats of Resene Lustacryl on interior French windows, when it is safe to blade back the glass? In other words how many days after the second coat? 

A. You'd be safe to do this after a few days, although if you can wait a week or two it allows the paint to cure. Ensure that you take care around areas you don't want to remove of course. Use a Stanley knife for nice straight lines.

Q. What paint should I use for repainting interior window frames? I think the old paint on them is probably oil based.

A. Sand the existing paintwork to profile, dust off and apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I'm a contract project manager (repairs/renovations). I have a client whose home experienced a fairly serious fire in their lounge, which also affected an adjacent bedroom. The painted timber window joinery survived intact but was affected by smoke, water and heat.

What is the best way to prepare and restore joinery that has been through this experience?

A. The standard prep is to remove all loose char by scraping with a tungsten blade scraper or sanding, Then seal, see Data Sheet link.

The aim of the sealing system is to prevent stain bleed into a topcoat system.

Q. I need to paint some window putty. The paint according to the putty container needs to be oil based. Can I use Resene Sureseal pigmented sealer as primer and then put on two waterborne topcoats?

A. Let the new putty develop a skin then use Resene Enamel Undercoat (not Resene Sureseal) as the priming system.  Then you can topcoat with the two waterborne topcoats.

Q. How can I prevent recently painted timber windows from sticking? I have previously found that they tend to stick to the frames when closed, even after the paint has been on for a few days. 

A. The issue you have, seems to fit with no or poor block resistance,  

Block resistance is the capability of paint, when applied to two surfaces, not to stick to itself upon contact when pressure is applied. For example, good block resistance helps keep a door from sticking to the jamb or a window from sticking to its frame. Standard waterborne paints have poor block resistance.

Resene Enamacryl is based on a cross linking waterborne resin and when cured does have block resistance. I suggest that you coat the contact areas that have not been painted with Resene Enamacryl, with a coat of Resene Quick Dry and then apply two coats of Resene Enamacryl. Leave the new paint to dry for a full day before closing.

Q. I need to repaint my very sunny kitchen bay window as the paint is peeling in parts. The surface is solid wood. What steps do I need to take i.e. sanding: do I need to sand all the area, primer, coats of paint etc. which paint would you suggest? It gets a lot of water condensation.

A. Sand back to bare timber and apply a coat of Resene Wood Primer and finish with a coat of Resene Enamel Undercoat and two coats of Resene Lusta-Glo tinted to your required colour. An all solventborne system will give the best resistance to the condensation.

Q. What paint spec do you recommend for the timber window reveals in an ensuite when we want to paint these a matt black colour? The window also faces north-west so will be prone to a lot of sun even though the window is double glazed with Low E so does have some UV protection/reduction.

A. For the best outcome the priming system should be envelope applied to seal off all faces. Prime with a coat of Resene Wood Primer and a coat of Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat and topcoat with two coats of Resene SpaceCote Flat Kitchen & Bathroom.

Q. I am repainting the outside of my son's house. I will be painting the wooden windows frames and external doors. My daughter in law has a 9-month-old baby and she does not like the smell of paint - what paint system would you recommend?

A. You can use Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat as the primer and then two coats of Resene Lustacryl. Both products are Environmental Choice Approved.

Q. What is the best paint for windows, doors and architraves on the interior and exterior? Would it be low sheen or flat? The interior is good condition enamel, about 20 years old. The exterior varies from good to poor condition and needs sanding, fill, and prime/undercoat.

A. Old enamel paint can be difficult to prepare to achieve adhesion of a new paint system. Ensure the existing enamel is clean and free from grease etc. then thoroughly sand to profile for recoating. Then apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Dark colours may cause the rapid drying of damp timber with the ensuing danger of warping, though this effect will be lessened when a Resene CoolColour™ is selected in place of a standard colour. The CoolColour topcoat will not render the painted surface cool to touch but the Cool Colour version will reflect more heat than the same colour made on non-cool technology.

Q. Can I paint over oil based paint with acrylic? I'm painting my windows.

A. Yes you can but you must use a waterborne enamel topcoat for windows. Sand the existing paint and then wash down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions to achieve a chalk free surface.

Apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and then two coats of either Resene Enamacryl gloss or Resene Lustacryl  semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

Q. I'm just checking that I can use Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel over the solventborne general purpose Resene Wood Primer on my exterior windows.

A. Yes, but to achieve the best adhesion of the topcoat, I recommend a coat of Resene Quick Dry be applied as an undercoat prior to top coating. We recommend using the Resene CoolColour™ version of the topcoat colour if selecting a dark topcoat colour. The CoolColour™ top coat will not render the painted surface cool to touch but the CoolColour™ version will reflect more heat than the same colour made on non-cool technology.

Dark colours may cause the rapid drying of damp timber with the ensuing danger of warping, though this effect will be lessened when a CoolColour™ is selected in place of a standard colour.

Q. What kind of paint should I use on my exterior windows and doors?

A. Waterborne enamel topcoats such as Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl are now the commonly used topcoats. Prep and priming requirements will be determined by the existing paint system and its condition.

Q. I have a 1930s house with wooden windows in a very exposed location. In rainy, windy weather, water seeps in around the edge of the glass of the windows. The exterior paint (acrylic) is generally in good condition (last painted seven years ago) but has peeled off the window putty, which is cracked in places. I assume the rain is being driven in through the cracks. I hope to solve the problem by repainting and want the paint to be durable and long lasting as many of the windows are on the second floor and require scaffolding. Suggested solutions from painters are: better prep (more sanding), applying No More Gaps and slightly overlapping the paint onto the glass, and using high-gloss oil-based paint.

A. Sorry but using a paintable filler and paint in my experience, will not correct the water ingress. You need to replace the putty.

Q. We are getting aluminium windows put into a concrete building. It is the usual practice for a run of sealant to cover any small gaps that may remain between the aluminium frame and the concrete building. The builder, who is doing our job, tells me he uses Bostik® MS Safe Seal. So what do we paint this sealant with? You have suggested Resene X-300E if I recall correctly. We have 60 windows, so want to get it right.

A. I have spoken with Bostik, and to follow is a summary of the discussion.

Around window frames is not as taxing as an expansion control joint but we would still recommend an elastomeric paint (Resene X-300E). Hundreds of houses are done with normal acrylic without complaints, but it is not worth the risk in a big job.

Q. How do you treat knots on old windowsills before repainting?

A. Spot prime bare knot areas with Resene Aluminium Wood Primer.

Q. I have old aluminium window frames that I wish to paint white, to match my new windows - how would you suggest I do that? Presently they are silver.

A. Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions (do not allow the wash solution to dry out on the window glass) then apply a coat of Resene Vinyl Etch grey and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. We have had to re-putty a sash on a leadlight window which was painted about 10 years ago in a Resene CoolColour Nomad. We have some of the paint left but no primer or undercoat. Could you suggest what we need to re-paint the sash with?

A. If using linseed oil sash putty, allow the putty to cure to develop a skin, then prime with Resene Enamel Undercoat before topcoating.

Q. I have some rust stains leaching through white timber window frames presumably from the fixings. This is after about 10 years. The frames have been originally primed and painted and were repainted about two years ago. What would I need to do to remedy this and is there a block-out/primer I can use without major surgery?

A. This is a common problem seen with older windows. To rectify the fixings long term, hinges should be replaced with stainless steel versions.

If this cannot be done, then apply a barrier primer such as Resene GP Metal Primer over the area showing rust staining, then reapply topcoats. This is only a cosmetic fix.

Q. I have some wooden windows being installed on my property and they come pre-primed with one of your products - the AquaLAQ NGR Primer Sealer. Could you tell me the best way of topcoating this?

A. AquaLAQ NGR was originally designed as an OEM spray applied primer for MDF (furniture) which was then sprayed and top coated with AquaLAQ topcoat colours.

The priming/topcoat painting would be undertaken in a furniture coating shop and the painted items then sent out to site for installation.

The primer can be used for shop priming of timber (joinery) where a durable fast dry priming system is required. An alternative Resene paint system is required for this situation. The system is a coat of Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat and then topcoat with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I am preparing matai or rimu sash windows on the outside. The house 100 years old, what primer do I use?

A. We recommend Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat. You can then topcoat with either solvent or waterborne enamels.

Matai contains a natural anti-oxidant which prevents the drying mechanism of a solventborne wood primer such as Resene Wood Primer, however this primer can be used for priming rimu.

Q. I am repainting windows - some of these have oil based paint and I understand you recommend your acrylic enamel to go over top. What primer/undercoat would I use?

A. Sand the existing paint, dust off and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry followed by two coats of waterborne enamel topcoat.

Q. I have wooden windows and am about to replace some of the linseed oil based putty. Could you please tell me how long the putty should be left to dry before it is painted and which primer/undercoat can be used and which is the best to use?

A. The requirement is for the putty to have developed a skin, then prime putty with Resene Enamel Undercoat.

Q. I have window frames and skirting which has been painted dark blue. I want to repaint them white but I am unsure if they have used enamel paint. Do I need a pigmented sealer?

A. Ensure the areas are degreased using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner then sand with 220 grit sandpaper to profile and apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry. You can then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl or Resene Lusta-Glo. Resene Lusta-Glo will give better wear resistance for skirting but it is solventborne.

Q. I need to re-varnish a lot of WRC timber windows, in a clear finish. The previous interior clear semi-gloss waterborne finish (not Resene) broke down with the sun shining in on sills and stiles in record time. What do you recommend?

A. Strip back to bare and thoroughly sand then apply a seal coat of Resene TimberLock (wipe excess at time of application), and leave to cure for at least 2 days ensuring good ventilation at all times. Then apply three coats of Resene Aquaclear waterborne varnish.

Q. What paint should I use as a primer, on exterior totara windowsills?

A. Resene Quick Dry is the only primer we recommend for bare totara. Solventborne oil based primers do not dry when applied to totara, as this timber contains natural anti-oxidants which inhibit the drying/cross linking of the primer.

Q. We have skylight windows which are sealed shut and the hinges are rusty on the outside.

A. Replacement of the hinges with stainless steel hinges is the only effective way to deal with this corrosion.

Q. I’ve got some very faint cracks above the windows, from when my foundation was fixed. I don’t want to rake the crack and then plaster and tape it. I was also thinking of using the most flexible indoor paint. What is the most elastic indoor paint you have and could a very flexible paint like Resene X-200 be used inside for these cracks?

A. We recommend a stripe coat of Resene X-200 for hairline cracks.

Resene X-200 is not formulated on an elastomeric resin system. It is extensible but not elastic. Resene X-300E is our elastomeric exterior paint, but we usually don’t specify this for interior application as it needs UV to give surface hardening.

Q. I am about to start sanding and repainting my exterior window and door joinery. What primer/undercoat should I be using before I paint it the new colour? And once I have prepared the window is it just primer/undercoat and then two coats of the new paint? The new colour will be quite light in colour. The timber is rimu.

A. Prime using Resene Wood Primer, then a coat of Resene Quick Dry undercoat and two coats of a waterborne enamel topcoat such as Resene Lustacryl.

Q. We have old 1970 style aluminium window frames that I want to paint on the inside. I have bought Resene Vinyl Etch adhesion primer and would like to know what I can use over this as topcoat?

A. We suggest Resene Lustacryl for topcoating. There may be a lingering solvent odour following application of the Resene Vinyl Etch primer. After application of the etch primer, maintain ventilation and leave the primer untopcoated for as long as possible, as topcoating can delay loss of the odours material from the primer.

Q. I am painting a cedar window frame; the timber is in good condition. Should I use Resene TimberLock under the Resene Wood Primer or can I just use Resene Wood Primer?

A. If the cedar is sound, not weathered then there is no real need for the Resene TimberLock but it can be used for a belts and braces approach.

Q. I have painted exterior windows. I prepared well, and used tape around the window to get a clear edge, about 2mm. My first coat was solvent-based primer followed by two topcoats of water-based exterior paint. I removed the tape carefully shortly after the paint dried. It came off well and left a clear edge. Several weeks later I cleaned the windows and the paint on the glass is easily washed off or just falls off. It hasn't adhered, so why is this?

A. The wet adhesion of waterborne enamels to glass is not as strong as wet adhesion of traditional solventborne enamel.

If the primer was applied to the glass, and has adhered then the topcoating with Resene Enamacryl  should also adhere. The only suggestion I have, is that the primer overlap is possibly less than the topcoat.

If you are repainting, I suggest that you may look to change to Resene Lustacryl as the topcoat.

Q. Can I paint aluminium ranch sliders and windows, to change the colour? I have some Resene Sonyx 101 waterborne semi-gloss. Can I use that?

A. Yes, but not using Resene Sonyx 101 as the finish coat. Clean down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions, apply an adhesion coat of Resene Vinyl Etch and then two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. Our windowsills are currently polyurethane over rimu woodwork. Can we topcoat over Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer without undercoating first?

A. Yes as long as the varnish is clean and free of oil/grease type of contaminants. Allow the Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer to cure for 48 hours before overcoating.

Q. Do you have anything for faded aluminium windows?

A. Clean down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions then apply Resene Clearcoat UVS.

Q. The paint on our exterior wooden window frames is crazy cracking after quite a few years. Is that because waterbased paint has been applied over oil based paint? I would like to repaint them with oil based paint so does that mean I will have to completely remove all the crazy cracking paint?

A. The effect you describe often occurs when a harder top coat is applied over a relatively softer base paint. Most often seen if traditional solventborne enamel is applied over a conventional waterborne paint. You will have to strip back to bare timber to repaint.

Q. What is the hardest wearing semi-gloss, for interior window and door frames?

A. Resene Lusta-Glo solventborne enamel.

Q. I have got wooden window frames painted in oil based paint which need repainting. I have sanded them back (to bare wood in some places). Where there is bare wood I have used Resene Wood Primer general purpose, and then completely under coated with Resene Enamel Undercoat general purpose. How many enamel topcoats do you recommend I apply?

A. You will only need to apply two topcoats of enamel. If these are exterior windows then the only enamel that can be applied is Resene Super Gloss as lower sheen levels chalk when exposed to U.V.

Q. Is Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer suitable for priming prepainted aluminium window frames for painting? Or is there another product more suitable i.e. metal etching primer?

A. Wash windows with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Then apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 followed by two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. We are painting old interior timber windows. It has been suggested that we use an oil based undercoat first. Can I use Resene Enamel Undercoat with a Lustacryl waterbased topcoat? It’s weathered cedar/totara we think, with no obvious varnish or stain remaining (house was built in 1940s).

A. If it is totara, then you can only use Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat, as application of Resene Wood Primer to this timber does not allow the Resene Wood Primer to dry.

Q. Four years ago we painted our older outside window frames with a waterborne white enamel but the paint on windows on the sunny side has broken down terribly. I now want to use an enamel base paint after sanding.

A. The alternative solventborne topcoat is Resene Super Gloss enamel but if your comment ‘broken down terribly’ refers to surface chalking the same will occur with the solventborne enamel but at a much faster rate of chalking. If the failure is flaking/peeling then this is not associated with the topcoat paint type but more likely due to surface preparation.

Q. I'm considering recolouring 30 year old anodised bronze aluminium doors and windows. The original bronze is fading and they all look very tired. The location is by the sea and I'm surprised that there is no total loss of the anodising or signs of major oxidation/salt damage. I searched your website and found Resene Imperite 413 which looks to be perfect. I then found your previous questions and answers covered the same topic. However the products recommended vary. For example I see Resene Imperite 503, Resene Armourcote 220 and 221, Resene Uracryl 402 and 400. So can you please advise the latest products? I'd like to spray if possible so can you guide me through preparation and the spray process?

A. My best recommendation is to clean down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions, then apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 402 or Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. We have just moved house and are looking to freshen it up by repainting all the walls and woodwork. We have an 8 month old and a 2 year old and are worried about the fumes being harmful to them. Could you please let me know what would be the best paints to use?

A. Any of the Resene Environmental Choice approved paints would be our recommendation. Once painting is completed allow at least a week with good ventilation before re occupying the painted area.

Q. Can an earthquake make paint peel off window frames, doors etc because since the Kaikoura Earthquake it seems to be a lot more cracked than previously? Also, when I hosed the wooden Hardiplank® there seemed to be paint coming off between the boards.

A. Loss of adhesion is most often associated with dimensional changes of timber due to changes in timber moisture level or where there are multiple coats of (paint on a surface) and the stress of the paint system on underlying layers can cause failure. Where there is adhesion loss, what is revealed on the back of the flake and where the paint flake has been removed? This will assist in possibly explaining the adhesion failure. I have not seen any evidence to date to suggest that the movement of timber in an earthquake event can cause paint to lose adhesion.

Q. I have several window sills and door sills that have the paint (semi-gloss enamel) lifting in thick chunks where the sun shines on them. I don’t think sanding them by hand will be sufficient to remove the paint to repaint the frames. How do you suggest I go about the repaint? How best to do a total strip?

A. A heat gun and a tungsten blade scraper is the most efficient way.

Q. What's the best type of paint for doing internal window sills and the surrounds?

A. We recommend Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel. If you prefer a higher gloss you could use Resene Enamacryl gloss waterborne enamel.

Q. What paint should I use on new window putty?

A. If the new putty is a linseed oil putty allow the putty to skin over then prime with Resene Enamel Undercoat. Extend the paint line just above the putty line onto the glass. You can then apply a Resene waterborne enamel or Resene Super Gloss enamel as the topcoats.

Q. Despite careful preparation the paint on my sun baked east/north facing window sills doesn't last more than 2-3 years before cracking. I use Resene Quick Dry x two coats, and topcoat with Resene Enamacryl Gloss Crab Apple x 2 coats. I was advised applying several layers of Resene Acrylic Undercoat will improve durability. I would like to know if I could use 2-4 layers of the primer/undercoat as the undercoating paint instead of straight undercoat. Would that be better or as good as using undercoat or have you another suggestion?

A. I see no technical reason to use more than two coats of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and two coats of topcoat tinted to the colour. I am sure that colour selection is the main contributory reason to the failure. Dark colours attract more heat and this stresses the paint system often to the point of failure. We would normally recommend using the Resene CoolColour™ version to address this as the CoolColours reflect more heat than the non-CoolColour version of the colour. However Resene Crab Apple cannot be formulated as a CoolColour so this option is not available.

Resene Enamacryl is a cross linking waterborne enamel paint and over time will develop into a hard paint film with reduced flexibility; paint film flexibility does allow the film to expand and contract without undue stress. Are there any areas on the sills where two painted surfaces come into direct contact? If not then a change to a conventional non cross linking paint such as Resene Hi-Glo (gloss) or Resene Sonyx 101 (semi-gloss) may offer a better solution.

Q. What would cause the paint to crack on the join of my interior windowsills? Several interior windowsills and frames I painted a couple of months ago have cracked where the windowsills join the outer frames.

A. There has more than likely been dimensional changes within the timber due to variations in moisture content. Paint has a degree of extensibility but only to a small extent. The paint film would break if extended beyond this.

Q. I’m going to strip all the enamel off my scotia, door/window frames and repaint with a waterbased paint. Do I need to prime beforehand? Also, can I use the same paint system on exterior as well? Or do I need to use enamel on exterior windows?

A. Yes, prime first with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and the same can be used for exterior timber priming.

Q. My house was completed in 1990 and the interior woodwork i.e. window frames, skirting boards etc are painted in a cream which appears to be oil paint straight onto the wood. When rubbed with meths the paint doesn't come off. There are a few small areas perhaps 5% that have begun to peel after 26 years. I have sanded these back to solid paint. I then used a primer for water based paint over oil. I put two coats on, then two coats of gloss finish (water based). The problem is a big difference in the thickness of the paint. The patched areas are covered but are really obvious because the paint isn't the same thickness as the original oil paint. I really don't want to have to remove all the oil paint in order to deal with 5% that has come away from the wood surface. What am I doing wrong?

A. What you describe usually occurs when re painting older properties with a build up of paint layers over many years. If you feather the edges where paint is flaking when sanding back to a sound edge this can reduce but not eliminate the appearance of these areas. The other option is to use a product like Resene Timber Surface Prep.

Q. Can I paint over powder coated window frames? What products do I use?

A. The best system we spec is Resene Armourcote 220 and Resene Uracryl. You need to clean down to remove chalk and contaminants first.

Q. I have purchased a house which has dark bronzed anodized aluminium windows and which have areas of oxidation/rust on the exterior facings. I plan to hand paint the aluminium frames and would like a specification to treat the oxidation, to etch prime, to undercoat and to finish the coat to a smooth finish.

A. Scrub down with Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions. Wet sand areas of corrosion back to a sound base, clean back and when dry apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 to areas of prepared corrosion. Apply a full coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and then finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. I want to repaint windowsills. How do I know if the paint is enamel or what sort of paint is already on there? I live in a Lockwood home and need to also redo the wooden ceiling in the bathroom which has mould on it. I think it has some sort of polyurethane on the wood but I don't want to damage the wood when cleaning. What would you use? What product would I recoat it in?

A. Clean down an area (chalk free) and then wet a cloth with meths and quickly transfer to the painted surface and rub. If there is softening or removal of the paint then it is a conventional waterborne paint.

Re the mould question: treat these areas with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. If the mould remains then the mould growth is underneath the clear layer. If this is the case then the only way to address the issue is to remove the varnish.

Q. Can you please advise who paints the bottoms and sides of windows? Is it the exterior painter or the interior?

A. It is unusual to have separate painters for interior and exterior unless it is a large commercial project

Q. I am planning to paint some internal windows and door frames that were painted 20 years ago in enamel paint. Can I paint over these with the new generation water based enamels?

A. Yes, clean down using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner and sand the old enamel, then apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry Primer Undercoat and then finish with two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel, such as Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss or Resene Enamacryl gloss.

Q. What is the recommended paint system for timber window joinery where the window is within a shower and will get direct contact with water? I have been suggested an oil-based enamel… but would appreciate your input.

A. Yes, a full oil based system, Resene Wood Primer, Resene Enamel Undercoat and two coats of Resene Super Gloss or Resene Lusta-Glo. For the best result ensure all cut ends are primed to seal against water uptake.

Q. I have varnished windowsills in excellent condition. I now want them to be painted white. Do we sand the varnish completely off or can we use a product to seal the varnish then undercoat, paint etc?

A. Using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner ensure the surfaces to be painted are clean and free from grease, paying particular attention to hand contact areas.

Apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and allow to cure without water contact for at least 48 hours before over coating. Then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

The new paint system will take five days to develop good initial adhesion and continue to cure for an additional three weeks until full cure occurs. In the early stages the paint surface will not have good resistance to cleaners or abrasion as these features develop as the film undergoes curing.

Q. I'm trying to make a decision on the paint for around my windows and trims. What do you use? Is it acrylic enamel or oil based enamel? What finish - gloss, semi-gloss, satin? I will be using white that much I have worked out. I have always used oil based enamel with a small roller and get a beautiful finish. I did try acrylic enamel about three years ago and couldn't get the same finish as oil based. Is this normal or has it improved? When I ask at the shop they all say everyone is using acrylic these days so how do they get that smooth finish?

A. The market has moved to waterborne enamels for exterior joinery, despite the fact that the ultra-smooth high gloss that comes with a traditional solventborne enamel is not achievable.

The key distinguishing factor between a solvent and waterborne enamel is exterior durability. The time to surface breakdown (chalking) of waterborne enamels is significantly longer than a solventborne enamel. This means a longer recoat time.

Semi-gloss solventborne enamels chalk much quicker than a gloss version and the time to chalking is so short that no paint supplier recommends use of a semi-gloss solvent borne enamel top coat for exterior joinery. However waterborne semi-gloss enamels such as Resene Lustacryl give very good durability for both interior and exterior use.

Waterborne enamels set up and dry very quickly and this gives reduced time for flow and levelling and this is why brush marking is more common. Addition of Resene Hot Weather Additive does give an extended open time and does give a brush finish with reduced brush marking.

Q. I am trying to find a paint that I can use to apply to a window. I am trying to design a sign for a cafe window and was wondering if you knew of any paints that would be suitable to apply to glass that would not be wiped off easily.

A. While we do have specific paint for glass it is a two pack product. Standard solventborne enamels such as Resene Super Gloss will give good adhesion to glass as long as the glass is clean.

Q. We have some badly weather beaten wooden windows. Last time they were painted it did not adhere to the timber and has lifted. It is susceptible to extreme hot and cold as well. What should we use to seal and prime the timber? It is cedar sashes and rimu sills and frames.

A. The primer we would recommend would be Resene Wood Primer topcoated with two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel topcoat (use the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour if the topcoat colour is available as a CoolColour).

Q. I want to refresh doors and window surrounds, skirtings etc. in my home. They have initially been painted in oil based enamel but I want to freshen them to white. Someone told me I will have to use oil based enamel. Someone else told me to ask Resene as they think it could be easier to 'seal' it with a coat of sealer then you can use a water based enamel instead. Could you advise please if the latter is true and if so what is the sealer please?

A. You can use a waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl as the new topcoat. Assuming there is no flaking or mould then wash down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash and sand to provide a mechanical key for the new paint system. Apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene Enamacryl.

Q. I am repainting old windows. Internally the frames are clear finished matai. The sashes are clear finished cedar. All external surfaces are painted. I have sanded the interior surfaces and stripped the exterior surfaces. Interior - where exposed to sun the old clear finish has largely come off. Where protected from direct sunlight the gloss surface has been removed. My question is if I use Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer on these is it also ok on the areas where the old clear finish has been removed? The line between the two areas is vague. On the outside - is Resene Quick Dry ok on the cedar sashes or should I use primer?

A. Use Resene Wood Primer, not Resene Quick Dry, for priming bare cedar (interior or exterior). Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer can be used as an adhesion primer over old varnished surfaces but not as a primer on bare timbers.

Q. I am painting some windows which have been stripped back but the stain from the wood is bleeding through the acrylic undercoat. I am wondering if I can put an oil based undercoat over the waterbased undercoat and then a waterbased topcoat over that? If this is possible what product would you suggest for maximum stain blocking?

A. If the primer is Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then yes to an application of a coat of solventborne Resene Enamel Undercoat to block tannin bleed, then you can apply two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel topcoat.

Q. I have stripped back painted interior cedar window frames. What primer/undercoat do I use and then what type of topcoat paint?

A. If the windows are in an area where there is condensation then prime with Resene Wood Primer. Apply an undercoat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then finish with two coats of Resene Lusta-Glo (solventborne semi-gloss) or Resene Lustacryl (waterborne semi-gloss).

Q. What paint do I use on windows in the bathroom? Note that the windows are already painted and so I'm just sanding back and doing some topcoats.

A. Suggest that after sanding back you apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then you can topcoat with two coats of a Resene solvent or waterborne enamel.

Q. What paint can I use on old faded aluminium window frames? They are about 30 years old and factory coated and have not been painted since being installed.

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions and a Scotchbrite pad. When dry apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 epoxy primer and finish with two coats of a Resene Uracryl 400 Series finish tinted colour.

Q. I'm repainting my cedar windows which are about 40 years old. The old paint is in very poor condition so I'm stripping back to wood. Resene sold me Resene Wood Primer, solventborne, and Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss, white. However the vertical supports and sills are to be Resene Pharlap. Is this colour available as a Resene CoolColour™? The windows face north west and sun damage is a big problem. I see online people suggest undercoating with aluminium paint when heat is an issue. Can you share your thoughts please?

A. The colour Resene Pharlap has a LRV factor of 23, and will attract some heat build-up. The timber industry is generally stating desirable levels above 40 LRV to reduce timber stresses. Aluminium primers will make little difference to the paint system performance, but an additional topcoat of Resene Lustacryl will provide better results.

Q. I want to paint my internal doors, trims and windows, internal and external, in semi-gloss white. Can I use the same paint for all of it? Or should I buy different paint for external and internal windows?

A. You can use Resene Lustacryl for both exterior and interior painting.

Q. My windowsills through the whole house have been painted in Resene Lustacryl. I would now like to get the bedrooms and hallway painted. Should walls and skirting be painted with Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen, and door frames and new wardrobes (customboard) with Resene Lustacryl (although this is glossy so not ideal look-wise for wardrobe)? Or can I paint everything with Resene Zylone Low Sheen?

A. Yes to Resene Lustacryl for skirtings and doors and we recommend Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen for walls. For bare substrate prime with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat.

Q. I want to change the colour of our internal window/door trim. The trim has previously been painted with oil based enamel and is in good condition. Can I lightly sand and then paint straight over with water based acrylic paint?

A. Degrease and sand to provide a mechanical key for the new paint system. Apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and finish with two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel such as Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen or Resene Lustacryl.

Q. What do you recommend as a primer and topcoat for window security grills? Some have been previously painted while others will be new galvanised. The topcoat colour will be Resene Armadillo.

A. Use Primer Resene GP Metal Primer for bare metal. Then apply two coats of Resene Super Gloss enamel.

Q. I have cedar windows 38 years old. The white paint is flaking badly, down to the wood in many places and especially off the putty (probably acrylic as it's very hard). The previous owner had the house professionally painted but she forgot when. The cedar weatherboards, painted some time in dark brown, are in excellent condition so the paint can't be too old. I've stripped one window back to bare wood and applied Resene solventborne timber primer, white, plus two topcoats Resene Lustacryl waterborne semi-gloss enamel. Now upon reading the can I see a recommendation to first apply Resene TimberLock. I have a lot more windows yet to paint!

A. If after stripping the windows you thoroughly sand the cedar back to a near new condition then you can omit the Resene TimberLock, however inclusion of the Resene TimberLock will give extra protection to the base timber. If thorough sanding is not undertaken then application of Resene TimberLock will give robustness to the red paint system. I still suggest that, as a minimum, any areas of greyed cedar are sanded to remove loose surface fibres.

Q. I have a 1950s weatherboard house that I am stripping back to bare wood and repainting. At the moment I am doing the window frames. The wood is rimu throughout. Please recommend an undercoat and topcoat product. I get confused with primer, sealer, undercoat.

A. The best primer for Rimu would be Resene Wood Primer, then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene Enamacryl.

Q. I am painting white sash windows over 100 years old, which are inside in a bathroom. Am I best to use oil/solvent or acrylic paint and as some areas are back to the original wood and others perfect white paint do I need to prime the whole sash or just the areas of bare timber before undercoating? Finally do I need to totally remove the sash to paint them properly given the paint extends to areas I can't access where it slides up and down in the frame?

A. You will need to prime any bare timber. The timber type will dictate which primer to use. The existing paintwork is probably an oil based paint system and may well have underlying layers of paint that contain lead. If you have a flake then I suggest that you get it tested for the presence of lead.

Q. I am painting interior windows with Resene Lusta Glo enamel for the final coat. What would be the best undercoat? The windows have previously been painted with a waterbased acrylic. Is your pigmented sealer the best option?

A. We recommend Resene Quick Dry Primer Undercoat.

Q. I've bought several old wooden lead light windows and want to paint the wooden framing. These need to be repainted. Can you tell me what is required? The existing paint is probably lead based so I assume it needs special handling.

A. Given this is only a relatively small job I suggest you strip the paint off using a heat gun and a tungsten blade scraper making sure all paint flakes are captured for disposal. Use a heat gun with temperature control and set this at a maximum of 400°C. Be careful when removing the paint from areas close to the glass as the heat transfer may result in glass fracture. Lead melts at a temperature of 375°C so again care is required to avoid melting the lead fixings. Alternatively remove the paint using a paint stripper such as Sea 2 Sky. This may require multiple applications of the paint stripper to remove all of the paint back to bare timber. Collect all of the stripped paint residues for disposal. When the timber is clean of the old paint wet sand with 220 grit wet and dry paper, wipe clean and allow to dry. Prime with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat (if the timber is Cedar or Redwood use Resene Wood Primer) then finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl or Resene Enamacryl.

Q. I am painting a windowsill with Resene Lustacryl with a 100mm roller, but I am unhappy with the finish which is dimpled like an orange peel.

A. Film set up of waterborne enamels such as Resene Lustacryl is quick, especially at this time of the year. This does mean that the wet film does not have time to fully flow and level. However roller application of any waterborne paint will always give a degree of orange peel, again the wet paint needs to flow and level.

We recommend adding Resene Hot Weather Additive at the recommended addition rate to the Resene Lustacryl. Sand the existing paint to reduce the orange peel, dust off and recoat.

Q. I have used Resene Wood Primer general purpose wood primer exterior solventborne to prime a number of windowsills. Am I able to use waterborne acrylic paint as a topcoat?

A. Resene Wood Primer can be overcoated with Resene acrylic paints. If left for more than two weeks give a light sand and dust off before applying the waterborne paint.

Q. I am refurbishing 80 year old steel frame windows but am not able to remove the glazing. The bedding putty is a linseed oil one, and it is cracking and powdery. I plan to scrape all the loose material out, and refill with new putty. Should I use a galvanising primer on the steel window bar first, or paint one on over the new putty seal. What primer/undercoat combination would you recommend? There is not a severe rust problem.

A. Priming of bare substrate is always recommended when re glazing. Follow the painting recommendation of the putty supplier.

Q. Should I use a brush or roller to apply Resene Lustacryl to a new French door and new double hung sliding sash windows?

A. Rolling will give a more even finish but when painting French doors a small brush is the easiest. Ensure that Resene Hot Weather Additive is used to avoid gross brush marking.

Q. I am painting some window sashes with acrylic paint and would like to know how to get a flat/smooth paint finish i.e. eliminate brush strokes or roller stipple. Would an additive to improve the paint flow help and do you sell a product like this?

A. The total elimination of brush marks and roller stipple after application of waterborne paints is difficult in summer due to the quick dry characteristics of waterborne paints. Addition of Resene Hot Weather Additive at the maximum addition rate will increase open time and give more time for flow and levelling to occur but will not eliminate brush or roller stipple marking.

Q. I have powder coated enamel metal windows and would like to know if I can paint over them and what products to use?

A. Wash down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash then prime with a coat of Resene Galvo One and finish with two coats of Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel.

Q. We have painted our wooden windows, but have painted the brick work as well. How can I get it off? The paint has been on the bricks for years.

A. Given the length of time the paint has been on the bricks removal may not be easy or complete. Our only suggestion would be to use Resene Graffiti Cleaner, more than one application may be required.

Q. A Victorian villa in Auckland has previously had enamel gloss paint on the eaves and windows. The painter wants to use acrylic matt for the eaves and semi-gloss on the windows etc. Will this be as long lasting? What is the difference in longevity? Cleaning? Or is there none?

A. The use of full gloss oil based enamels for exterior painting is historical. Solventborne gloss enamels usually start to show chalking on the northern and western elevations within two years. The visual appearance of chalking is a whitening of the paint surface and is easily seen with dark colours. Chalking is a UV/water induced breakdown of the paint surface. Reduced gloss solventborne enamels chalk very quickly with exterior exposure and for this reason are only recommended for interior applications.

On the other hand waterborne enamels of reduced gloss can be used outside as these are more resistant to UV breakdown than a matching solventborne analogue. So we are more than comfortable with using Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel for exterior application to surfaces subject to full weathering. If the surface is fully protected from the direct effect of weathering (soffits) then even lower gloss waterborne enamels can be applied.

While there is no durability issues there is one possible down side to using waterborne paints; that is increased potential for brush marking. This is related to the open time (film set up time) of these paints. Waterborne paints dry very quickly, even more so over summer or in windy conditions. Addition of Resene Hot Weather Additive is recommended for application under hot or windy conditions; while this reduces the possibility of brushmarking it will not eliminate the potential for brushmarking.

Q. Do you have to prime metal window frames before painting them? The frames are possibly steel or aluminium which have already been painted years ago but now the paint is flaking off a lot. So do I prime them before painting the gloss on them?

A. Yes, all bare metal will need to be primed with 1 or 2 coats of Resene GP Metal Primer once all loosely adherent paint is removed.

Q. I had a bit of rot in a windowsill which I have cut out as much as possible. I've then treated the sill with Resene TimberLock. I need to now fill the hole left after removing the rot but the builder's bog won't adhere to the treated timber. What are your thoughts?

A. Use the RepairCare DryFlex System product available from any Resene owned Colorshop.

Q. Can I paint an aluminium ranch slider and windows? Our house is 1940s with wooden joinery, and the ranch slider probably dates to 1980s. I think it's anodised.

A. Clean down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash following label directions then apply a coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and leave to cure for 48 hours then apply 2 coats of Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel.

Q. I have 6 windowsills and a door entrance that have been extended by laminating another piece of wood to the initial sill, making it wider. I have been advised that the seal is not really necessarily sufficient to seal the wood. I'm looking into methods available that might seal them prior to painting a top coat of colour. I'm looking at a coat of Resene Dry Fix followed by a coat of Dry Flex to seal it. Is this what your product is designed to do and is it available in the amount required for this application?

A. Seal off using the Dry Seal system then prime.

Q. The windowsills in our 1957 house are specified as 6" x 2-1/2" Heart Black Pine. The architect's instructions were to 'coat hot lime before painting' so I guess this is something to do with it being Heart Black Pine. Given the above instruction and type of timber I want to know the best type of primer, undercoat and topcoat to use given today's paints. I presume the original paint system was oil based.

A. I have rarely come across this timber by name but in NZ it can also be known as Matai. Given this we would recommend using Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat to prime the bare timber followed by an additional coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then finish with two coats of Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl.

Matai contains a powerful anti-oxidant which affects the drying mechanism of traditional solventborne enamels and the use of lime may have been the way at the time to remove the anti-oxidants from the timber surface to ensure the alkyd enamels dried.

Q. We are about to paint bedroom walls with Resene Half Athens Grey and paint the trim (window frames, skirting boards etc) with Resene Half Alabaster. I am wondering what paint to buy? We have four children so we need the paint to be easy to clean. The colours are neutral and light but we do want to get a nice contrast effect. We are going to paint the hallway in Resene Half Alabaster. Should we use the same system for this space?

A. I recommend Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen for all areas. The paint takes a month to fully cure and for the first week following application the paint will still be relatively easily marked while it is curing.

Q. When using a waterbased enamel on interior window and door frames, I have had trouble getting a smooth finish without brushstrokes. I have a good quality brush and have learned that you cannot go back over the paint as it goes off really quickly. I have also tried using a small roller, but do not like the finish as much. The woodwork I have been painting has a sealer applied to it first as I am painting out all the natural wood to lighten up the place. The paint also seems to take a few coats to cover the sealer/wood underneath, particularly on the skirtings. Do you have any pointers or advice for me?

A. Brushmarking is unfortunately a negative feature of application of waterborne enamels. This is due to the shorter open time. Open time can be increased by addition of Resene Hot Weather Additive. Also when brushing apply a liberal wet coat, lay off and try to avoid going back over the area.

Q. The varnish finish on the wood surrounding a number of our windows is showing the effect of 15 years sun and light. To re-varnish what is the best preparation and varnish? I have done one window and it turned out a little patchy. Maybe the prep was not the best.

A. Removal of water staining back to a uniform timber colour is often very difficult. You will need to completely strip the old varnish back to bare. Treat for mould using Resene Moss & Mould Killer and thoroughly sand. Then apply a coat of Resene TimberLock followed by three coats of a Resene Qristal solventborne varnish. This works well if the timber is dark colour. The Resene TimberLock is orange brown in colour.

Q. We have semi-gloss black powdercoated aluminium windows (15 years old). Is there a product that I can brush on to bring back the shine on the powder coating again?

A. While we don't have anything specifically in our range for this purpose it's likely much of the colour change you are looking at is chalking. I'd suggest trialling scrubbing down an area using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash to remove the chalking. This should allow much of the underlying colour to show through again. As always, ensure you follow the instructions on the pack.

Q. I want to paint over old exterior window frames, which are currently a rich red colour. I will be painting over it with a light colour. Do I need to strip the red off with a heat gun etc? Or can I simply give it a good sand and paint over the top?

A. If the existing paintwork is sound then there should be no need to strip. If this is the case then thoroughly sand and apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat before applying two coats of topcoat colour.

Q. My house is 5 years old and we have cream coloured what we believe are powder coated aluminium windows. We are changing our colour scheme and the cream just does not go and we would like to paint them white. What steps and what products would I need to use to repaint them?

A. Scrub down the powder coated joinery using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash following label directions then apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and allow to cure for 48 hours before applying two coats of a Resene exterior waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl. Note the painted surface will not have the same hardness and wear properties as the original powder coated joinery. For a harder wearing finish prime the prepared joinery with Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 400 series 2 pack polyurethane.

Q. I am wanting to use pine clears for window reveals and architraves with a clear finish. The reveals will be H3.1 treated. The architraves untreated. What is the best system?

A. For the best wear I would use a traditional solventborne varnish. These do yellow over time and when really old can become quite a dark brown but we are talking about decades. Waterborne varnishes do not yellow over time but are not as hardwearing as a solventborne varnish.

Q. I have a house with aluminium powdercoated window frames. What can I paint these with, preferably brushed or rolled, not sprayed?

A. Scrub down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash then apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 epoxy primer and two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. I've painted the outside of my sash windows with your product. As advised, the paint has overlapped the putty by quite a bit. How do you advise I go about scraping the excess paint off and making the overlap neat and uniform?

A. Use a sharp blade to cut a line then slide the blade under the section to be removed.

Q. What undercoat should I use for exterior windows? What paint should I use? I like the waterborne enamel. What is better - the Resene Lustacryl or waterborne enamel?

A. Resene Lustacryl is a semi-gloss waterborne enamel and can be used for painting exterior windows. Bare timber will need to be primed with a primer that is recommended for the timber type then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry before applying the two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I am working on the skirtings, trimmings, windows and doors. I have sanded them thinking I would use oil based paint. After sanding I have used a pigmented sealer. However, the family now want them to be varnished so we can see the wood grain effect on them. How do I go about this?

A. You would have to strip the pigmented sealer off using a paint stripper or thoroughly sand.

A. Prime clean frames with Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer. Then apply two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I have 40 year old wood windows in my home. I noticed one of the windows has a sap like substance on it and looks like a bit of bubbling near the sap after applying Clorox to remove it. Some did not come off. What can I do to remove the sap and keep it from returning?

A. Bleach solutions will not remove sap exudation. Best to use a tungsten tip scraper to remove the sap and expose the bare timber. Sand and then apply two coats of Resene Wood Primer to the prepared area. This usually stops further sap bleed but not always.

Q. I am in the process of scraping the paint off my windows back to wood. There has been a number of coats of paint applied to the window frames. Once I get the paint off can you please tell me if I should use an oil based undercoat and if I could put an acrylic topcoat on?

A. The choice or primer depends upon the timber; Totara and Matai must be primed with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat, for all other timbers use Resene Wood Primer (oil based). You can apply both water and solventborne topcoat systems over either primer. If using waterborne topcoats for windows you must use a waterborne enamel such as Resene Enamacryl (gloss) or Resene Lustacryl (semi-gloss).

Q. I purchased some Resene Quick Dry undercoat for our new window frames (internal). Can I use any topcoat paint on this (oil based or waterbased)? What type of paint do you generally recommend for internal window sills and architraves?

I've been reading about oil vs waterbased paints and I'm thinking that a waterbased option would be more environmentally friendly and a healthier option. Our builder recommended oil based for durability, which was also mentioned on a sticker that came with our new windows.

A. You can topcoat the Resene Quick Dry with either water or solventborne systems. The solventborne paint option will give a harder paint than a waterborne enamel paint. In terms of exterior durability there is no argument that a waterborne enamel will give a longer time to the onset of chalking than a solventborne enamel. Durability is not a consideration with interior surfaces.

Q. I need to repaint old aluminium sliding doors and windows, after filling the pits from years of sea salt. Does Resene have such a product?

A. You will need to apply a coat of Resene Galvo-Prime as the primer then follow with two coats of Resene Enamacryl Silver Aluminium to give the metallic finish.

Q. We are trying to repaint the exterior timber frames around our house windows with white Resene Lustacryl over the previously painted Resene Karaka and a dark red turps based paint. We have prepared by sanding and priming with Resene Quick Dry and after applying the Resene Lustacryl we can see the previous paint in places.

A. Application of white finish coats over a very dark base colour can require more than two coats. Coverage is a function of application rate and as the see through of the basecoat is not over the entire area then this does suggest differences in application rate. The only way is to apply another coat and ensure that a good wet film thickness is applied.

Q. We want to maintain the exterior look of western red cedar windows that are subject to coastal weather and high temperatures. We previously used another product but had to strip windows back to bare wood as this product breaks down too quickly. Not keen to paint but want a finish that will last more than a couple of years.

A. A Resene Woodsman exterior stain would be our recommendation if you don't want to paint. In harsh exposures such as you describe there would be the need to apply a maintenance coat every second or third summer. The stain is designed to erode so flaking is not an issue. When you need to apply a maintenance coat you usually just need to clean the surface (e.g. get rid of dirt, spider webs etc) and then apply the stain.

Q. I am painting my old villa which has some severely deteriorated paint around the windows. Bare wood is showing on the sill and bottom facings of sashes, some of which has gone furry. I was planning to use oil based primer on this and follow with an oil based undercoat. However I have not been able to get all of the old paint off so am wondering if it is wise to put oil based paint over what may well be water based paint left on the boards? Could you please advise what I should do here?

A. You can use two coats of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and then apply Resene Super Gloss as the topcoats. Ensure that the greyed timber is thoroughly sanded to sound grey free timber.

Q. I have rimu window frames inside and out. What basecoat can I use to stop the paint from lifting? Water based paint is currently being used.

A. We would recommend using Resene Wood Primer as the primer to the bare rimu.

Q. I have timber framed bi-fold doors and windows so half exposed to the exterior and half interior. The door/window manufacturer recommends oil based paint. I am looking for a semi-gloss white (Resene Alabaster or equivalent) oil based product that is suitable for exterior and interior surfaces.

A. I can understand why door manufacturers would recommend oil based priming and undercoating systems but solventborne semi-gloss enamels chalk rapidly upon exposure to the weather and UV. We recommend Resene Lustacryl for exterior use if a semi-gloss finish is require. Resene Lustacryl is a water borne enamel. It can be used as the finish coats over oil based priming systems.

Q. I have a timber window frame that is partially in the shower area and was wondering what is the best way to protect the wood with a paint that won't peel off. I need to remove the current paint from the frame.

A. Assuming that the timber is pine, strip the existing paint system and allow the timber to thoroughly dry out. Then apply a coat of Resene TimberLock, wipe excess from the surface and leave to cure for 48 hours then apply the following; Resene Wood Primer, Resene Enamel Undercoat then finish with two coats of Resene Lusta-Glo. This system will protect timber that has been repainted but cannot protect against water ingress form areas that are inaccessible for repainting.

Q. I want to paint windowsills and some trim on my old weatherboard bungalow in a dark blue colour called Resene Lucky Point. This has a luminance number of 32. If I use the CoolColour version will it be safe to paint? I don't want such a dark colour to wreck the wood or have it turn chalky from the sun and wind. I won't be painting the weatherboards this dark colour; they will be white.

A. The darker the colour the shorter the time to onset of chalking and also an increased potential for issues associated with heating of the surface due to the dark colour. When we are dealing with cool colours we give a TSR value. TSR is total solar reflectance and for the non-cool colour this is 11.7% and increases to 31.2 % for the Resene CoolColour™ version.

The higher TSR value is the beneficial feature. To maximise TSR apply the two coats of CoolColour topcoat over a white base coat. If you are applying the new system over an old paint system of a lighter existing colour you will need to be aware of the potential for the old coating losing adhesion due to the heat stress of the darker colour.

Q. I am currently trying to freshen up some windows in the back shed. These windows look about 30+ years old and I have scraped the flaky paint off and sanded back and painted with sealer. It now has a browny colour coming through the paint where it was scraped back to bare wood. What can I do to stop this happening?

A. I assume that you used a waterborne primer and that the timber is either redwood or cedar. What you have is tannin bleed from the timber. Tannins are water soluble and are activated by the waterborne primer. Apply a coat of Resene StainLock over the brown areas and then continue with a Resene waterborne topcoat system.

Q. What paint should I use for an exterior topcoat for wooden windows? Waterborne is OK. Needs to last well with UV. Have some Resene Quick Dry primer already.

A. You can use Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl for this application; the exterior durability of both exceeds the solventborne versions.

Q. What is the process for painting preprimed internal wooden window frames. Is it just undercoat and two topcoats?

A. We recommend sanding the primer with 180 grit sandpaper, dust off and apply Resene Enamel Undercoat and the two enamel topcoats. If the windows are in a wet area then apply a coat of Resene Wood Primer before the above coats.

Q. We have just bought a house and the previous owners have stripped the rimu door frames and window frames and skirting and architraves back to rimu then oiled them with a Danska Teak Oil. We want to paint over them and go back to a white colour. We have heard that there can be issues with this. Is there any process we can do to be able to paint over these?

A. The Danska Teak Oil should have dried to a hard film. If there is mould growth present then treat with Resene Moss & Mould Killer following the label directions, sand with 220 grit sandpaper, dust off then prime with Resene Wood Primer. Apply an undercoat of Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat then you can apply two coats of either a solvent or waterborne topcoat.

Q. I have rimu window frames. I have always used totara. What do I use to prime it?

A. We recommend using Resene Wood Primer for priming Rimu. For Totara and Matai you must use the Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat as these native timbers contain anti-oxidants that prevent the drying of primers such as Resene Wood Primer.

Q. I am looking at spraying some old brown aluminium windows white. What sort of primer and topcoat should I use?

A. Use Resene Vinyl Etch as the primer and any Resene Uracryl 400 series topcoat as the finish coat.

Q. Am I best to apply Resene enamel gloss paint around windows doors etc in the bathroom/toilet area? Was thinking semi-gloss?

A. You can use either Resene Super Gloss (gloss) or Resene Lusta-Glo (semi-gloss), whichever gloss level you prefer.

Q. We have some aluminium windows that leave our newly painted rooms looking dated - they appear more pink now. Is it possible these can be prepped and painted (internal side) with a paint that will stand up to the elements it will receive as well as not flaking or scratch off?

A. Clean down and lightly wet sand with 400 wet and dry paper then apply Resene Galvo-Prime followed by two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. Is there a trick to painting around aluminium joinery? I have masked it (which in itself is a very tricky task on smallish windows) but it always looks terrible because some paint inevitably gets on the frame, which I can scrape off afterwards, but it also seeps into the gap. Can I avoid this happening somehow or make it easier?

A. Masking is the only way to really avoid the issue or use a small speed brush.

Q. I am painting our windowsills etc, and have a coat of waterborne enamel on them. It doesn't seem to have good coverage after two coats. Is it possible to coat on top with an oil based enamel for a smoother finish?

A. If you leave the waterborne enamel for at least 48 hours then you can apply two coats of Resene Super Gloss Enamel. If the colour is a dark colour there may be some dissolution of the waterborne enamel into the first coat of Resene Super Gloss. Waterborne enamels can easily be overspread and this is probably the reason why you have the poor coverage. They also dry much quicker so unless there is a liberal application of wet paint they dry before the paint can undergo flow and levelling.

Q. My aluminium windows have faded hugely. I have polished the windows back to their original colour and am wanting to know if there is a clear lacquer available to help keep the colour on the window for longer. The window colour is Grey Friars.

A. You could apply two coats of Resene Uracryl 402 (semi-gloss) or 403 (gloss) Series UVS Clear. Adhesion and compatibility depends upon the surface characteristics.

Q. We are getting retrofit double glazed windows installed. They will be cedar. The joiner is painting with Resene Wood Primer (brushed on) before leaving the storeroom. I wish to paint them as soon as they are installed. On previous windows we have finished with Resene Lustacryl. I plan to apply the Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat over the Resene Wood Primer as the Resene Lustacryl information sheet says this provides a good surface for the Resene Lustacryl. Does this sound like the right procedure? Should I also do an extra coat of the Resene Wood Primer before Resene Quick Dry undercoat (to ensure a good primer layer so tannins don't leach)?

A. Your suggestions are in line with our recommendations.

Q. I have a problem with the surrounding rubber on the windows as they are perishing and leaking black down the rest of the paintwork. I can't replace the rubbers at this stage… I don't mind that the paint film will crack as the bus is out of the weather. I just need something to go over the rubber.

A. Paint will not address the leaking. Assuming that you only require a small quantity of paint, my only suggestion would be to scrub down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted to label directions, rinse with clean water and allow to dry then apply two coats of a light Resene testpot colour.

Q. I have a house full of 30 year old anodised and very badly oxidised aluminium window and door frames. What would you recommend I use to clean and paint them please? They are a darkish coppery colour and I am hoping to paint them a modern soft charcoal colour.

A. Wash well with hot water, detergent and water and rinse. Wet and dry sand to remove ALL white corrosion product. Take care to sand pitted areas especially well. Remove all sanding dust/oxides. Prime with two coats of Resene Armourcote 221 and then apply two coats of Resene Uracryl 403 tinted to your selected colour.

Q. Can existing anodised aluminium window frames be prepared for painting?

A. Yes (assuming no surface corrosion is present) they need to be clean of contaminants and then primed with an adhesion primer such as Resene Vinyl Etch before topcoating with a two pack polyurethane such as Resene Uracryl.

Q. I have used an oil based enamel (Resene Super Gloss) for my windowsills inside. My windows run with moisture so need to be wiped each morning. Also my cats spend a lot of time dancing along the windowsills. I chose this paint because it is hardwearing. My husband thinks that the shiny surface looks dated. What other options do I have?

A. Full gloss enamels will give you the best scratch resistance but you could move to either Resene Lusta Glo (semi-gloss) or Resene Room Velvet (low sheen). Sand the existing enamel to de-gloss then apply two coats of the new enamel finish.

Q. We have a bay window with a butynol roof covering it. The butynol has faded and weathered and has a residue that runs down the windows when it rains. It is still weatherproof but looks dull and we were thinking of painting it. Does Resene make a sealer and paint that we could safely use to cover the butynol?

A. Thoroughly scrub down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and applied to label directions then rinse off with freshwater and allow to dry. Apply a coat of Resene Membrane Roofing Primer followed by two coats of Resene Lumbersider (low sheen) or Resene Sonyx 101 (semi-gloss). Use the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour you select.

Q. I painted a new wooden window frame - I primed it with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then a few topcoats of Resene Lustacryl. Then I read the pdf data sheet that I should have used Resene Wood Primer as I have a few streaks appearing at the bottom of the window wood panel which indicates it's probably a cedar window. I've sanded these bits back. Do I have to sand back the whole window and apply Resene Wood Primer? Or is it just going to be a problem at the bottom and I could just touch up the affected part?

A. Lightly sand the affected areas and then seal off with a coat of Resene StainLock and then reapply the topcoats.

Q. What is the best paint to use on new exterior wooden sash windows – a waterborne or oil based paint?

A. You can use a gloss solventborne enamel or a gloss or semi-gloss waterborne enamel as the topcoats. Putties and the timber will need to be primed with the recommended primer.

Q. How can we remove dried paint splashes from aluminium window frames?

A. If the paint is waterborne and fresh try wiping with meths and a cloth. Alternatively use Resene Brush Cleaner and a cloth but wear protective gloves when using the Resene Brush Cleaner. Wash the cleaned area down with water after wiping with the Resene Brush Cleaner. Try a small area first to ensure that there is no effect on the aluminium.

Q. We have brown aluminium window frames and we want to repaint them white. What is the best way to do this and what product would you recommend?

A. Assuming the aluminium windows are presently unpainted, a suitable system would be: Scrub down with Resene Roof and Metal Wash using a bristle brush. Rinse thoroughly, wet sand to remove any areas of corrosion. Remove any dust etc. Prime with Resene Vinyl Etch then apply two topcoats of Resene Enamacryl.

Q. I am painting windows and need advice on painting the putty. The putty is several months old and well dried. Some websites call for oil based paint because the putty was linseed oil based. I am using Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat on the timber.

A. Cured linseed oil putty can only be primed with an oil based undercoat such as Resene Enamel Undercoat. Given that the putty will now be well cured a light sand before priming is recommended.

Q. I need to paint a laminate windowsill - how do I prime it and what kind of paint should I be using?

A. Ensure the sill is degreased and then prime with Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer, leave the sealer to cure for 48 hours then undercoat with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat followed by two coats of Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel. The system will take up to five days to achieve reasonable adhesion and during this time water should not be left to form on the freshly painted surface.

Q. A house I have been asked to look at has had its interior door and window frames sealed with waterborne enamel and topcoated with two coats of oil so no sealer/undercoats have been used. It was painted about 6 months ago. What can I do to fix or will it be ok? What will happen to these surfaces in the longer term because of this?

A. I assume by oil you mean an oil based enamel topcoat. There should be no real issue of adhesion of the oil based topcoat to the waterborne enamel basecoat as long as there was only a short interval between the applications. For internal timber we recommend application of a dedicated wood primer or enamel undercoat before top coating. It’s difficult to make any comments on long term issues without more detail on where the substrates are located within the house, the specific products used and whether it was a repaint or new work.

Q. A major job needed on the (exterior) windows and sills of this 1980 house. I have sanded away part of a sill, but with the passage of time cannot be sure what kind of timber it is. I want the best paint solution. Am prepared to sand all back if needed.

A. The ID of timber can be problematic, Totara is usually distinguishable by the dark colour of the timber, cedar/redwood has a characteristic odour when sanded. Not so easy for other native timbers such as Rimu and Kauri, although Rimu can be a dark orange brown colour but it depends upon where the timber was cut from. If the property was constructed in the early 80s it is unlikely to have native timbers used for joinery, more likely to be redwood or cedar.

I would endorse total removal of existing paint. Given the difficulty in determining the timber you may have to carry out a test area. If the timber is redwood/cedar the primer will be Resene Wood Primer. (The other timber primer is Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat; this primer is for all timbers but specifically for priming Totara and Matai, if applied to Redwood/Cedar there will be tannin bleed which will continue to come through a waterborne paint system). Repair cracked putties using RepairCare DrySeal in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions (available from Resene ColorShops). Once the appropriate primer is selected then the following paint system is recommended - undercoat Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat, topcoat Resene Enamacryl CoolColour™ version of the colour if available.

Q. Our windowsills get very hot and crack. I understand there is a sealant that I can use to put on first, leave to cure and then paint with under coat and paint. Can you tell me the name of this product? Also I am told you have to remove all the paint. What would I use to do that? Heat gun or paint stripper or scraping?

A. The existing paint will need to be removed back to bare timber and the timber thoroughly sanded. For small areas such as sills a heat gun and a scraper is the best way to remove the paint. How old is the current paint system? If the property is old and there have been many layers of paint applied there may be lead based paint present. If this is the case then ensure that the heat gun operates at a temperature of less than 400°C, place a drop sheet on the ground to collect all paint flakes and bag in a sealed plastic bag for disposal. Make sure that you wear a dust mask during removal of lead based paint. Fill cracks with the Repaircare system. When applying the Repaircare epoxy smooth to level during application as the product is difficult to sand smooth when cured. Prime the sill with Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat then apply two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel, such as Resene Lustacryl (semi-gloss) or Resene Enamacryl (gloss).

Q. I have plaster revealed windowsills in the bathroom and kitchen that may be exposed to a small amount of water flicking onto them. I need an undercoat/sealant that will act as a barrier to prevent the water from penetrating into the plaster.

A. Use Resene Solventborne Aquapel, apply until the plaster surface will not accept any more liquid.

Q. I have a property with satin polyurethane finished interior rimu window reveals. We are redecorating using your products and have decided we would like to paint them as the timber has faded and in some cases discoloured. What is the correct preparation and undercoat to use?

A. If the existing polyurethane clear is sound and clean then lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper and apply the following system: Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer, Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat and then 2 coats of Resene Lustacryl. The system will need a minimum of 5 days to develop final adhesion.

Q. Do you have a paint that I can use to paint over a bare aluminium window (approx. 70s)?

A. Scrub it down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash, rinse clean with water and allow to dry. Prime with Resene Galvo-Prime, apply Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat as the undercoat then apply two coats of Resene Enamacryl gloss waterborne enamel or Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel in your selected colour (use the CoolColour™ version of your chosen colour if available).

Q. I have previously used a waterborne enamel in 'white' to paint both interior and exterior of cedar window and door joinery. In order to get a decent white coverage we needed to use four topcoats. Joiners that I have spoken to have said that an oil based topcoat should be used to get better coverage and better performance.

A. Coverage has nothing to do with the paint type, it is about the application rate of the paint. For cedar you will need to prime with solventborne Resene Wood Primer and then I suggest that you undercoat with Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat and then you should only need to apply two coats of a white topcoat to get coverage.

Q. Could you please advise the best way to prep existing door jambs and windowsills that have been painted in an oil based enamel? We have sanded and de-glossed it is that enough? We have replaced all trim/mouldings and skirtings and would prefer to repaint in a waterborne enamel but are not sure about the older oil based enamel.

A. Sanding is the usual prep for recoating old enamel paints, dust off or wipe down after sanding with a damp cloth, allow to dry then prime the prepared enamel paint with Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then apply two coats of the waterborne enamel topcoat.

Q. I am stripping back around windows of a 1940s building where waterbased paint has been applied over old oil stain (and/or varnish). It needs an oil based sealer, because even after sanding the grain contains oil residues. I expect it to be Rimu, but old stains mask colour a bit and I’m uncertain whether there is any Totara. Is there a test we can use to check it?

A. Apart from colour difference there is no easy way to distinguish the two timbers. However Totara is usually very dark across the whole timber piece whereas Rimu has more grain and is orange red.

Q. My window frames are currently painted in Resene Decorator Alkyd Satin Interior (Resene Double Sea Fog). Can you please advise what current paint I can use to touch the frames up?

A. To achieve the same gloss level I would recommend staying with the product currently on the window frames.

Q. What paint should I use for previously painted interior windows and window frames? Enamel or acrylic?

A. You can use either waterborne or turps thinned enamels. Ensure there is no sign of mould (if there is treat with Resene Moss & Mould Killer) then sand and prime with Resene Quick Dry Waterborne Primer Undercoat followed by two coats of enamel topcoats. Suggest either Resene Lustacryl (waterborne) or Resene Lusta-Glo (turps thinned).

Q. I'm painting a house that has recently had some windows re-puttied. I have left the putty for a fortnight to dry. I'm using a Resene waterborne enamel. Can I put it straight on to the putty?

A. No, you will need to prime the putties with Resene Enamel Undercoat first.

Q. What do you recommend to bond Resene Lustacryl to glass i.e. putty edges? We taped the glass to get a clean sharp edge. We've tried using Resene Wood Primer and also Resene Quick Dry but it still lifts.

A. As a general class of coatings compared to traditional solventborne products, waterborne enamels have reduced glass adhesion and more so when immersed. The latter occurs at the paint glass interface with windows when water runs down the glass,and once adhesion is lost it does not recover. We recommend using a turps thinned enamel undercoat to prime new putties after the recommended putty curing time and extending the paint above the putty line to ensure adhesion of the paint system to the glass, then when applying the waterborne enamel ensure that the topcoats do not extend onto the glass. There is another issue with new windows and this is associated with oil residues originating from the putty. Waterborne paints, conventional and water borne enamels, are sensitive to oil on the surface and this will also affect adhesion.

Q. What product(s) and specification would you recommend for the renovation/refurbishment of sun/weather faded anodising on aluminium window joinery?

A. Clean down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash. If there are signs of corrosion wet sand these areas with 400 wet and dry sandpaper taking care not to unduly scratch the surface. Rinse down with fresh water and allow to dry. There are two painting options: Single pack prime prepared aluminium with Resene Galvo One, undercoat with Resene Quick Dry primer, then apply two coats of Resene Enamacryl or Resene Lustacryl in your selected colour. If you want a metallic finish then use Resene Enamacryl Metallic as the topcoat finish (make sure you use a solid coloured basecoat under the metallic topcoats). Or for a two pack option - prepare as above then prime with Resene Armourcote 221 epoxy primer and follow this with two coats of Resene Uracryl 403 (gloss) or Resene Uracryl 402 (semi-gloss) in your selected colour.